We started our tour this morning leaving KK and headed into the hills to the rural village of Kampubg Kiau.
On the way we stopped to enjoy the views of Mount Kinabalu, which you can see peeking out above the clouds below.
It was market day at the small town stop, so we explored the produce on offer, which comprised mainly of dried fish and nuts, as well as the more appealing pineapple.
Once we arrived in Kampung Kiau, we met our guide who took us on a herbal trail learning which specific plants are used in local dishes.
We then visited a local coffee production house where we learnt how the coffee beans are picked, dried, de-shelled and then roasted.
Andy got in on the act and helped with the removing of the shells
Our guide roasting the coffee beansThe finished product
We then checked out Everything Pineapple, a sustainable and community based project established post the Saban earthquake in 2015. We got to taste pineapple juice, wine, jam and chutney.
We also had a talk about the use of bamboo and how the villagers have built with it, made animal traps, knives, drinking containers you name it.
After an enjoyable meal and tour with the villagers we said our goodbyes and drove on to our nights accommodation, Sabah Tea Plantation.
A tea love spot
We are staying in a charming bungalow and had an enjoyable meal at the in-house restaurant with the rest of the group where we swapped stories of our travels and experiences from home.
Our guide, Ben who is very knowledgeable about all things Borneo, explained about the animals we hoped to see on a river cruise tomorrow and the adventures in store. He also introduced us to some of the local wildlife, notably a noisy insect called a Cicada.
With our tour not starting until 6pm today, we decided to head out on our own and explore the sights around KK.
Our first stop was Masjid Bandaraya mosque, where tourists can visit but are required to hire local dress to cover up.
Due to the heat, this meant for sweltering conditions until we got inside and out of the sun.
Local dress selfie Michelle in traditional dress
The mosque is the second major one in KK and sits in a prime position close to the sea and the major highway.
When entering the mosque we were met by a small boy who showed us where to place our footwear and how long we could spend inside and where we were allowed to visit.
The building is highly decorative and cavernous and welcomes hundreds of worshippers up to 5 times each day.
It was incredibly interesting to get the opportunity to look inside of the mosque and see how the community of people live and work within.
The building is surrounded by water and colourful flowered gardens and looks stunning.
After taking one last photo in the local dress, we moved outside the mosque grounds where you could get the best view. It’s truly amazing.
From there we were able to get a taxi driver to give us a tour of the rest of the sights of the city, with our next stop being the Tun Mustapha tower.
Due to its cylindrical shape, our ‘guide’ suggested the classic shot of us both holding up the tower in the background.
The tower sits in a municipal area where they also recognise and celebrate the native monkeys – needless to say Andy didn’t need much encouragement to get in the theme!
Our next stop was one of the city beaches which forms part of the main university grounds. It was a beautiful spot with classic swings in the trees looking out over the clear blue sea. The most idyllic spot we’ve seen to date.
Classic catalogue shoot
We then moved on to the University Malaysia Sabah mosque or pink building as it’s affectionately known.
Nearby the mosque, were some highly decorative steps which were designed and built just before Covid by a number of the university students. The colour and design mirrors the national dress of Sabah rungus community.
Keeping with the religious theme, we moved on to look around Puh Toh Si Chinese Temple.
The colours and drawings on the temple walls were so intricate and beautiful.
Looking around the temple it was clear how well kept the place was & the respect paid by worshippers when entering the grounds.
Our final stop was the Masjid Bandaraya mosque in central Kota Kinabalu.
When we arrived the people were being called to prayer, which made us realise the importance and significance the place has to the regular Muslim community.
After a busy few hours and with lunch fast approaching we retired to Tanjung Aru beach to chill and enjoy a cool drink looking out on the China Sea. The beach was stunning, but oddly deserted with no one else around. It was admittedly 2pm on a hot day, so locals probably know better than to sit in the heat without shade.
We enjoyed a long walk along the beach taking in the views, before returning to our hotel and our welcome meeting for the start of our Borneo Classic tour.
We met the other 6 people on the tour, who help form the ‘commonwealth’ group, coming from Canada, New Zealand, Australia and of course UK. They seem a lovely bunch and after the meet and greet we headed out for a bite to eat at a local restaurant on the waterfront. The food and drink was an interesting combo, but at just £2.50 per head, it proved to be good value.
After a quick beer back at the hotel bar, we decided to retire early to bed and ready ourselves for the start of the new adventure tomorrow when we head out into the mountain rainforest to visit a local village.
Au revoir to KL and hello to KK today. We were sad to leave the city and the Majestic Hotel after a wonderful and relaxing stay.
Before leaving we managed to get a final couple of photos in the main entrance hall before hotfooting it to the airport for our domestic flight to Borneo.
We had a little time to spare at the airport, which meant wandering around the Malaysian specialty stores selling the weird & the wonderful.
Not one of Michelle’s favourite fruits Andy meeting new friends Just about to take off to KK
After a 3hr flight and a short taxi ride we arrived at the Promenade hotel in downturn for KK for our two nights stay before we kick off on the Classic Borneo tour.
As the hotel sits right on the waterfront we decided to head for a drink to take in the views out over the China Sea.
Out in the bay is Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park, comprising a group of 5 islands located off the coast of Kota Kinabalu in Sabah.
Walking along to the port, we watched the local fishermen bring in their catch and get them prepared for sale to locals and tourists alike.
The size of the local tuna were immense and we watched as the skilled stall holders, some only kids, chopping up the fish with large knives.
Alongside the fish for sale, were vegetables as well as seaweed.
As we wandered further through the market, we saw chicken and fish heads side by side for sale and just ice cubes to keep them cool.
Pirate fish – incredible colours
A lot of the locals were heading to the market, not only to buy produce but also to eat and for just the equivalent of a couple of pounds you could buy bbq’ed fish served on banana leaves.
We stayed on the waterfront to wait the sunset over the sea and to marvel at the beautiful sky, a real change from the hustle and bustle of KL only a few hours earlier.
On our return to the hotel, we received some complimentary fruit salad, after a mix up over rooms when we first checked in. After an enjoyable first day in Borneo we are both looking forward to exploring the surrounding area and the various temples and mosques that sit outside of the city, as well as a trip to the beach for a dip in the clear blue sea!!
With today being our last morning in KL, we headed out post breakfast for a return visit to the Central Market and walk around Chinatown.
Before leaving the hotel, Andy insisted on getting his photo with another of the porters who was sporting an old British colonial uniform.
Despite being only 10am, it was already 36 degrees and getting hotter, so we headed inside for some respite.
The Central Market was formally a wet market that was converted to sell local arts and crafts in the 1980’s. You can stroll around the many sections within the Central Market, from the Lorong Melayu, Straits Chinese, and Lorong India, located on the west wing. The second floor hosts a food court, offering an array of food
Located alongside the main building is the newly transformed, pedestrianised and covered walkway, Kasturi Walk featuring stalls selling local snacks and souvenirs.
We then headed to the textile museum adjacent to the Sultan Abdul Samad Building.
The building was designed in a Moorish architectural style and houses 4 galleries detailing the history of Malaysian, Indian and China textiles and the costumes that are still worn.
Getting dressed up
After the museum we headed back to the River of Life walkway and the beautiful back drop of the Sultan Abdul Samad Building and Merdeka Square.
Inevitably there had to be an Insta backdrop with the I ❤️ KL!
The first National Bank of KL
As we walked around we saw brief glimpses of the rich greenery and the jungles that exist outside of the city limits.
As we meandered our way back to the hotel, we walked past the National Mosque of Malaysia.
Unfortunately we weren’t able to go inside, as non-worshipers weren’t allowed inside at the time.
Alongside the mosque were decorative architectural pieces:
Alongside this was the Islamic Arts Museum.
Our lasting memory of KL will be about looking up and taking in the ever changing skyline.
Another photo of Merdeka 118 which is close to completion
Next door to the hotel, are the two railway buildings erected in 1910 which house a station and the main HQ for the national railways. Each is notable for their architecture, which adopt a mixture of Eastern and Western designs.
Back at the hotel, there was just time to grab one more photo with the older and diminutive porter who helped us each day with the ordering of cabs.
With the heat of the day at its greatest, we headed for the hotel pool for a couple of hours of R&R before heading out for a final evenings meal and shop.
Back in Chinatown, Michelle was on the hunt for a memento and decided to treat herself to a LVMH bag, from one of the stalls that sells good replicas.
Michael Jackson themed restaurant – only in KL
After an enjoyable meal, we strolled back to the Majestic and enjoyed a final evening listening to some jazz in the hotel drawing room.
Tomorrow the next adventure awaits, as we fly off to Borneo for a 10 day tour into the jungle.
Another day, another early run for Andy, this time around the botanical gardens. He’s made a new friend with the porter at the Majestic, who by a twist of fate also originates from Nepal.
As Michelle is still feeling unwell, she stayed in bed this morning and Andy took residence at the hotel pool on the 4th floor.
Michelle started to feel a little better after a few extra hours sleep so we decided to go and have afternoon tea in the hotel drawing room.
The hotel is famed for its colonial charm and sitting in the drawing room with a piano playing and people eating cucumber sandwiches and drinking tea, it felt like we were in an old hotel in the West End of London.
After enjoying the backdrop of a piano playing and old school waiter service, we moved on to the smoking room, where for a charge you can pick a jacket and enjoy a cigar or cigarette with a glass or two of whiskey on ice, or whatever takes your fancy.
With early evening approaching, we headed out to a restaurant nearby the hotel for some traditional Malaysian and a dish called Nasi Lemak Ayam Rendang.
In front of the Majestic waiting for a Grab
With the cab delayed by Sunday night traffic, we decided to walk, which due to the humidity levels meant we needed a drink or two by the time we made it to the restaurant.
Chicken & rice and some spice!
We found a quicker way back and thankfully escaped the impending thunder storm that descended within a few minutes of being back in the hotel.
Tomorrow’s our last day in KL, so we intend to do some last minute shopping in Chinatown and see if we can pick up a bargain or two from the designer market stalls…!!
Today we said goodbye to Capri at Frasers after a fantastic 6 night stay and moved across the city for our final 3 days at the Majestic Hotel, a colonial masterpiece where we plan to explore the botanical gardens, Central Market and Chinatown.
Our arrival at our new ‘home’ was a great surprise as it’s such a stunning place.
The old entrance
The hotel is infamous in the city dating back to the 1930’s and has all the hallmarks of the old colonial past.
Entrance hall…
Our room is the best we’ve stayed at since we left the Uk, so we plan to make the most of our stay.
Bath time later Room with a view
After relaxing by the pool at lunch, Michelle decided to stay at the hotel, as she’s been suffering with cold symptoms (not uncommon we’re told due to shift from heat to air conditioning and back again through the day). Andy went out to explore the Central Market which houses arts and crafts, along with local street food stalls.
Next to the Central Market is the bustling Chinese streets and an area to pick up bargains, although most of the stuff on sale are designer fake goods – bags, scarves, watches, trainers you name it, they copy it and sell it – just don’t expect a receipt or a guarantee!
After a hour of walking around Chinatown, the heat and the bustle starts to tire you out, so Andy headed back on foot and took some photos of the local train station opposite and the ever changing skyline with colonial turrets and mosques sitting alongside the increasing number of skyscrapers.
Back in the hotel, we had a wander around the various themed bars and smoking rooms. There is even an Orchid room, which is awash with the various coloured plant. The look is incredible and like being in a tropical garden.
Having not eaten since breakfast, we decided late afternoon to head out for a bite to eat and were recommended a Malaysian restaurant called Bijan. It proved to be a real find and being a Saturday was busy and vibrant. We went ‘tapas’ sharing a veg starter which was a lite potato fritter in garlic and butter with a tomato dip. For mains, a chicken and tomato coconut dish, which had an Indian curry feel to it and was well received by the both of us.
After dinner we went to explore the other street market areas we’d heard about, the main one being Petaling Street and the night markets in the Golden Triangle. Both were so very busy and awash with locals and tourists alike. It’s culinary chaos, with people trying to tempt you to stop and try what’s on offer. As we’d already eaten, we held our nerve apart from a stop at a gelato stall for some refreshing sorbets. Really helped to cool us down.
We eventually found our way to Bukit Bintang and with the Eid celebrations now behind us, the normal crowds were back along with a few unusual faces….
At 9.30pm, it’s busier now than at midday, people live different hours, starting early and finishing late, which has to be down to the oppressive heat at midday.
When we got back to the hotel, we were planning a relaxing end to the evening and some reading, however we were hit by one of our first trip mistakes.
We received an email from our travel agent who we had omitted to notify that we’d taken an earlier flight out of Bali a week ago, thereby avoiding overrunning our 30 day visa, and as a result didn’t take our planned later flight on the 13th April.
Sadly the result being the airline cancelling our ‘connecting’ flights to Borneo and back in a few days time. Thankfully after a call to the airline and an admission of guilt and a ‘fine’ of £140 we have managed to get the flights re-instated.
Definitely a lesson to us both to check the paperwork and not go rogue without letting the airline know.
Thankfully we are back on track re travel plans, however Michelle has picked up a bug and has been in bed trying to shake the cold. We need her back to full strength on Tuesday when we head to Borneo and our 10 day tour of the rainforest.
Andy was up early doors for his daily 10k circuit around central Bukit Bintang before catching a photo with the Nepalese porter.
This morning we went out to get passport photos taken for our visas to China, Cambodia and Laos. Thankfully this proved quick and easy and we now have the various country photos sizes required.
With the rest of the day at our disposal, we decided to take a trip on the mono-rail, before getting a train down to the ‘new city’ of Putrajaya.
Eid celebrations keep on giving
Mono-rail time. So quiet, so respectful and so much better than travelling on the London Underground!
Relaxing with the locals Cabin with a view
Interestingly the trains in KL have women only compartments so when waiting you’re required to stand in specific locations on the platform.
A quiet, clean, long & unmanned train
When we arrived in Putrajaya, it was like arriving to a party a day late. The celebrations for the end of Ramadan had finished and the place was so very quiet. It felt like we were the only ones in the whole place.
Municipal centre and head of government View out to the mosque
Despite the heat of the day, which was 35 degrees +, we strolled along the lakeside and marvelled at the beautiful state buildings and temples that sit along the water front.
As we moved towards the centre square and the Putra mosque we started to see more and more people, mainly men who were going to pray and make offerings.
The mosque is stunning and sits next door to the prime minister’s main residence and the man-made Putrajaya Lake.
With the heat rising and fatigue kicking in, we decided to pick up a Grab taxi and head back into the centre of KL. We have signed up for a 2hr walking tour this evening around old KL, starting in Chinatown.
View of the city from our cab
As Michelle was feeling a little off colour, she decided to stay and relax at the hotel, so Andy had a gentle 2 mile walk to the meeting point in the glowing heat to join the walking tour.
On the way Andy came across some of the sights and sounds of KL, from the old (China town) to the new Merdeka 118. With a mosque and Chinese store in between.
Sadly the walking tour got cancelled, we suspect because of limited numbers, as the tour guide never showed up, so Andy was left to trudge back in the late afternoon sunshine.
The good news is that we are up on the 43rd floor of the hotel enjoying our last nights complimentary drinks and finger food. Such great hospitality, we will not forget our stay and will be looking out for other Capri at Frasers elsewhere in SE Asia!
Back on a tour today, with the first stop being a visit to a famous Pewter manufacturer, Royal Selangor. We admit it felt a bit random, which I suspect is down to the tour operators pay off from the company to see if they can get tourists to put their hands in their pockets. That said Malaysia’s history emanates from mining, as it once was the largest tin supplier in the world. Latterly Royal Selangor have become the pewter demigods and manufacture all manner of things from silver service for the Royal Family, to making the Grand Prix trophies for recent Malaysian races.
The largest pewter tankard in the world!The chemical bit to pewterThe Petronius Towers in pewter Workers handprints – those in gold signify careers of 40yrs+Money does grow on pewter treesMaking moneyTrophy from Formulae One Grand-prix Here’s something we made earlier Step into my office Cheers School of…..Money tree
After an hour or so, we left the pewter factory and headed for the main event, Batu Caves, a religious site north of KL, where caves were discovered 150yrs ago.
It’s on an epic scale, and not for the faint hearted, firstly it’s entrance is in the full glare of the 35 degree sun, the steps leading up the hillside to the caves are steep and to add to this it’s packed. Oh and there are monkeys trained to pickpocket!
285 steps leading up to the sky Gold Buddha
Malaysia is a multi-faith country and the Batu Caves highlight its diversity with a show of the Hindu faith on a scale we’ve never experienced before.
Families were out in force paying their respects in the various small temples located at the entrance and inside the caves themselves.
Before the climbA young believer with her family The mad scramble up the multi coloured steps
After navigating around a sea of people up the first set of steps, we entered into a cave that reminded us of an Indiana Jones movie – so other worldly.
The cave entrance was on a scale hard to describe – truly epic and spellbinding.
The first cave was busy with small temples, stalls with offerings for sale and tourists marvelling at the spectacle.
Our young friend again. Truly beautiful.
The various temples were all busy with worshippers coming and going.
The tradition and spectacle whilst alien to us, is undoubtedly majestic and awe inspiring.
From the first cave, there was a further higher cave, with another 100 steps up. Here the rock formations seemed even more impressive and captivating.
Monkeys everywhere Small temples and offerings were scattered around the caves, each trying to out do the lastLocals queuing to make offerings Stall for buying gifts View coming back down The colours of the temples are so vivid Colour colour everywhere So majestic Captivating
After the tour finished at the caves, we headed back to the city and the twin Petronas Towers to capture the view from another part of the city.
Today was a particularly hot one, above 36 degrees, so as soon as the chance arose we headed inside the shopping mall below the towers for some respite.
As Eid celebrations continue everyone flocks to the meeting place that is the mall!
As another busy day comes to an end, we headed to the 43rd floor of our hotel to catch the sunset and enjoy a complimentary glass of vino and some finger food. It’s fair to say we’ve enjoyed our stay to date at Capri by Fraser. Staff and service have been exceptional.
Another day, another giant shopping mall to visit and explore. The Exchange TRX, only opened last November and is just around the corner from our hotel. Again it’s packed up with luxury retailers but little shoppers from what we could see…!!
Andy’s morning run and photo with the Nepalese porter. Entrance to The Exchange and roof gardens Skyscrapers here there and everywhere Luxury perfumery entrance with living wallsEvery luxury brand you can think of & more As new restaurants open they receive flowers from other businesses and backers to celebrate The word according to Pumas Shopping at another level(s)Eid celebrations were everywhere Roof top garden – it’s a hot one todayGarden in the skyTRX tower 106 storeys & 1,500ft tall
The new tower and shopping area sits in splendid isolation to the rest of the established retail area and has created a whole new neighbourhood with more residential towers.
View looking back to Bukit BintangOur hotel is Capri and is second on the right
The Exchange includes some fun pieces with the cleaners driving around in giant kids toys.
106 storeys top to bottomMore Eid celebrations Some friendly Malay Chinese in local dress
Some of the stores in The Exchange are wacky to say the least, notably Gentle Monster.
Michelle in new sunnies Weird and the wonderful Friendly rhinoMalay locals
The skyline from the roof gardens – incredible views.
Eid again…
After strolling around the latest Uber mall, we returned to the hotel pool on the 43rd floor. The sun was shining so nothing to do but have a dip and relax!
After drinks and nibbles on the 43rd floor of the hotel, we returned to The Exchange in the evening and were amazed by how busy it was and the number of locals who were out with their families. This may have been down to the public holiday for Eid, however there is no doubt the Malays love to celebrate all things shopping and eating!!
Crazy motor for city living
After a few hours of people watching we returned to our hotel and the bright lights.
Tomorrow we are heading to the suburbs and Batu Caves.
We picked up the hop on bus mid-morning and headed on to the city tour taking in the array of high rise buildings that dominates the skyline wherever you go in the city. The city appears to be in a constant state of flux, with new buildings going up and new neighbourhoods in the sky being created.
Our destination of choice today was the iconic Petronas Towers, once the highest building in the world only to be surpassed by Taipei 101. The towers are interlinked and stand at 88 storeys in height. Sadly due to it being the end of Ramadan and a 3 day national holiday called Eid al-Fitr, we weren’t able to go up – a v big relief for Andy!!!
Instead we had ‘professional’ photos taken in front by the host of locals with their techy iPhones.
Back on the busAnother 60 storey tower…::Green buildings are scattered around the city and bring some colour in contrast to the a abundance of mirrored glass KL tower Sun on the skyline The weird and the wonderful Chinese influence runs deep in KLFrom the bottom of the Petronas Towers The money shot Michelle in pose Grand Prix from Petronas A long way from home….:Petronas Towers shopping mall – just the 5 levels Michelle nipping in AM for a bargainShoppers paradise KLCC park
Some much needed greenery amongst the sea of skyscrapers, the KLCC park is a beautiful lake and green space where you can find shade and hide from the 35c heat.
A skyline akin to New York or DubaiThe biggy – Merdeka 118Signs were up everywhere celebrating the end of Ramadan and Eid. Chinatown KL – a haven for haggling
We plan to head out tonight to Petaling Street to experience restaurants and food stalls offering local produce – curry noodles is Andy’s favourite.
We have a couple more days in Bukit Bintang, we are moving to stay at the famous old Majestic Hotel in Pusat Bandaraya, a colonial styled residence with old schooled charm.
Majestic Hotel Return to Little India
After boarding the bus again we returned to a few locations we visited yesterday, before getting off to take a wander along the river on the Colonial Trail.
Route for colonial trail
This part of KL highlights the ongoing emergence of new developments into the former old part of the city. It’s going to look so different again in another 5-10yrs!
The River of Life walk took us past some of the older temples and mosques that sit close to Klang River and the Sultan Abdul Samad buildings.
Along the river there are a number of buildings that appear to have been selected for ‘controlled’ graffiti. The paintings are very intricate and colourful and really lift these old and in some cases redundant colonial buildings.
Jamek Mosque is one of the oldest in KL and was built in 1909Michelle in front of Sultan Abdul SamadPainting of the trials leading up to Malays independence Final tour bus selfie Our local coffee stop
After finishing our bus tour, we had a wander around the main retail centre on our way to the Pavilion, a retail Mecca with every prestige retailer represented. Crossing the road is a real experience, with the crowds converging as the lights turn green – it’s a race to get across before the traffic starts again.
Celebrating Eid
The Malaysians love to shop, hence there are many mega malls everywhere and with Eid’s arrival the locals head out to buy something new in readiness for their holiday.
Michelle’s favourite pharmacy store Coffee KL style
After a busy day, we decided to retire to the roof top pool on the 43rd floor for some tanning and R&R.
It’s definitely tough at the top. Andy is starting to get accustomed to being so high up, although he insists on sitting well away from the edge, much to the amusement of the locals and staff at the hotel.
This evening we popped up to the POW WOW, the top floor where complimentary drinks and snacks are on offer from 6pm. What a find, it’s essentially a free dinner with drinks. Surprise, surprise the only people up there were us and a French couple who kept checking if everything was truly complimentary! After a beer, gin & tonic and a glass of vino we decided to call it quits and put off our night plans until tomorrow.
Another v enjoyable day, made even more special by meeting our bartender Sean, a Malaysian with Chinese heritage who talked us through life in the country and what we should be seeing and doing whilst in KL.