We said goodbye to Oz today after three very enjoyable months travelling from Sydney to Adelaide, via Melbourne and then finishing with a 10 day loop around Tasmania.
We left Hobart in a blaze of sunshine and after a short 90min flight we were back in Sydney, if only briefly.
After a few hours at Sydney airport and a return visit to our ‘favourite’ McDonald’s in the terminal, we picked up our second flight of the day, a 6hr hop to Bali.
vino to relax with on the flight New sunnies anyone?!Time for a feed
We arrived to a humid and wet Depansar and the cultural change of being in SE Asia. Getting through passport control and customs involved numerous forms but after a hour or so we were out. After purchasing the all important new phone sims for our stay, we were in a taxi speeding our way through the busy streets to Sanur.
The Balinese people are famed for their friendly helpful manner and the hotel staff lives up to this, meeting us from the cab picking up the luggage and taking us to our room in super quick time. After a quick unpack, it was 10.30pm, although we were still functioning off a Hobart time of 1.30am and sleep came easily.
Tomorrow we start our group tour of Bali and are looking forward to meeting our guide and fellow companions for the next 2 weeks.
After a nights stay at a free camp just outside of Evandale, we headed to a cafe in the centre for brekkie and coffee. It was a revisit to this picturesque Victorian village and one that Michelle announced she could happily live in.
The last run on the campervan trail
As we headed south down the Tassie M1, we stopped in Campbell Town for a quick shop and a wander around. The former garrison town, was renamed by Macquarie (former governor from NSW), adopting his wife’s maiden name. It has bricks along the Main Street detailing the names of former convict residents who were stationed there.
The church in the town was built by the convicts like that of other colonial buildings in the area.
The convict church
The architectural 6060 structure in the town denotes the number of Tassie residents who have sadly died in accidents on the road over the last 100yrs.
After arriving back in Hobart, we dropped off the campervan after a weeks hire and returned to the airport for our last nights stay before our morning flight to Sydney.
We are staying a short distance from the terminal at the Travel Lodge. The return to a hotel room with a toilet, shower and tv, along with a large double bed feels a real treat.
Going to catch up with some Aussie tv viewing tonight, before tomorrow’s flights to Bali.
After a couple of busy days, we decided to take it a little easier today.
Our first coffee morning stop was the nearby town of Evandale, famed for its unspoilt Victorian architecture, along with a laid back village feel.
Last but one day in the camper
Evandale’s claim to fame is being the hosts for the penny farthing championships. The last one was held in mid-Feb and attracts competitors from across Oz and the world!
Whilst enjoying our brunch at the local cafe, we came across a large group of road cyclists from Melbourne doing a charity ride across the country. Andy got quite ‘nostalgic’ and reminisced of the rides he did with mates back in Oxford.
After a wander around the town we moved on to another quaint town (Uk version of a village) called Longford. Again it feels reminiscent of a Victorian neighbourhood, with many of the houses dating back to the 1850’s.
We also visited a grand Georgian styled Manor House in Clarendon, which reminded us of the mansions in the Deep South of America. In both cases they were built with slave labour, with the Tassie convict workers being forced to toil only for their board and lodgings.
After all that history and culture, we made our way to the Josef Chromy Winery for some much needed cellar door action!
Such was the level of the establishment some guests arrived by helicopter.
Like previous cellar door visits, the winery had a top notch selection of wines, restaurant and not forgetting the awesome views.
On a near perfect day weather wise we relaxed in the sunshine. No guesses who was drinking and who was driving!
Taking one for the teamWhere to start
After partaking in a sparking, two whites and a rose, Andy managed to pick himself up and we had a wander around the Estate.
We would definitely recommend a visit to this winery, given the friendly service, great location and wonderful wine and food on offer.
Sadly tomorrow is our last full day in Tassie and we will be making our way back to Hobart to drop off the camper. We then have a nights stay at the airport hotel before flying back to Sydney and then a longer flight on to the island of Bali.
Leaving Launceston at 8.30am we drove 2hrs west to Cradle Mountain National Park. Whilst only the 6th highest mountain in Tassie, its beautiful surroundings make it a standout place to visit.
Lunch stop at the Titanic cafe
Thankfully we got lucky with the weather and despite being on the top of the mountain range, the sun was shining and we had clear skies which meant we could see the summit from the moment we arrived at the visitors centre.
We opted to do a walk around Dove Lake, at the base of the climb, having realised the walk to the 1,545m summit would involve an overnight stay!
Check out that vista
Whilst there were a few day trippers on our coach up to the lake, there were some professional walkers with all the gear, whereas we were in shorts, T-shirts and sandals with a buttie and a bottle of juice for sustenance. Thankfully our fitnesses paid off, and a walk of 3hrs around the lake was completed in under half the time.
Full walking gear…Mountain summit just a stones throw away…All the gear and no idea…
After the success of our first walk, we decided to do another this time to view wombats in their natural habitat. Whilst active normally after dusk, we came across these unusual marsupials who do a good impression of boulders on the hillside, so were hard to see. Aided by locals we were able to spot a couple feeding on the heath. They are native to Australia and not found anywhere else.
Is that a boulder of a wombat A little video to show the wombat in motion
After our successful first two walks, we went for a third along the enchanted walkway (think it was targeted at kids) where we came across a small waterfall.
After a day in nature we hot footed back to Launceston after discovering the key lob for the campervan was faulty and needed replacing asap. After a return journey minus satnav due to lack of WiFi we made it to the garage with 5mins to spare.
Now relaxing at a camp ground in Longford about 10 miles south of Launceston next to the Macquarie River. It’s been a beautiful sunny day and nice to relax with a beer/wine and enjoy the last hour of sunshine.
Tomorrow we head to nearby Evandale, an early Victorian settlement which has retained much of its original architecture and historical connections, as well as being the host of the World Penny Farthing bicycle championship!
After a pleasant nights stay on the Bay of Fires beach front, post brekkie, we made our way back to St Helens for a coffee and muffin.
We then started the drive inland to the west and the hill road to Derby.
Having been to Derby in the Uk, I can honestly say it looks nothing like its Tassie cousin. This place is in the hills where mountain bike riding is the first and only reason to drop in. With a high street of just less than 200m, it had 4 cycle shops selling all the bikes and technical gear you need if going off road down a sharp and steep hill!
Whilst Andy loves his cycling, he favours roads over tracks so thankfully no purchases were made.
We drove on up the hills to Sidling Lookout which provided great views looking down on to the valley below. They like their roads steep in Tassie and so Andy was pleased when the van reached the top and the gear box was still in one piece.
A map of the journey today
After a quick stop at Launceston tourist information, we set out on a walk to the Cataract Gorge just outside the city.
On the way we passed the J Boag brewery but as we were tight for time no stopping for a taster.
Our walk took us along the South Elk river past the original customs house. An impressive colonial building, which looked a little out of place now that its near neighbours included Bunnings and Harvey Norman.
Beyond this we past the marina and the Tamar River Cruises pick up and made our way to the entry to the gorge.
We can honestly say we weren’t expecting the gorge to be as impressive as it was. So incredible that this is on the fringe of the city, and obscured from view until you start your walk up the river.
In a matter of moments we came across these magnificent rock faces, with local climbers challenging their skills up the steep rock faces.
Once at the summit of the gorge path, we were both surprised and pleased to see a 2 seater cable car that took you back to the basin.
After navigating our way past the resident wallaby and Peacocks, we took a 10min ride over the river, gorge and swimming pool below.
A fun way to see the gorge and all for just 15 dollars per head.
Next stop was a walk over the suspension bridge, crossing the river a little further up and providing more great views up and down the valley.
After walking back into the city, we picked a local camp ground/ farm for tonight’s stay which is amusing named Old MacDonald.
We intend to get a good feed at the farm restaurant before having an early night, as we have a 2hr drive first thing up to Cradle Mountain in the West. On arrival a 4hr hike awaits to take us to one of the lower summits in the Cradle Mountain National Park.
Today was mostly spent working our way through the Bay of Fire’s beaches.
After Andy’s early morning run and walk along on the beach at Bicheno, we jumped in the van and drove north up the beautiful coastline. After a coffee & bun fix in St Helen’s we made the short drive to Binalong Bay, the entry point to the Garden Path to view the first of many stunning beaches along this part of the coast.
Morning run finished In Bicheno All quiet on Bicheno beach Room with a view to the beach
The Garden Path, so named by the early English explorers who described the native plants as being like a large garden.
It was a little cooler first thing so we were layered up.
The water was so clear and turquoise blue in colour making them look so inviting to dip into.
Some quiet time to enjoy the view Michelle chillaxing on the rocks
The beaches were picture perfect and unspoilt with the only visitors being campervan tourists!
Andy’s customary star jump
We enjoyed a few hours dipping from one beach down to the next before we made a lunch stop at Binalong Bay and a fab cafe called Meresta Eatery.
A perfect blend at lunch, beer, pizza and a view of the beach below!
summer ale time Camper & beach – perfect comboFab veggie pizza for 2
After a very enjoyable lunch we headed to Binalong Bay beach for a spot of tanning and swimming.
By 5pm we decided to head back up the garden road and found a free camping spot looking out over Swimcart beach.
After a lite dinner of crackers cheese and grapes (Michelle fav) we went for an evening walk along the beach to enjoy the last of the sunshine and watch the sunset.
Our evening walk along the beach What a sunset
Tomorrow we head over to Launceston, the second city of Tassie, a 2hr tour over the northern hills through the Waratah Creek Reserve.
After a 45min drive from Swansea we arrived to a blustery Coles Bay and some serious waves and bobbing boats in the bay.
After picking up our pass to gain entry to Freycinet National Park, we started the climb up to Wineglass Bay viewing point. We had been prior warned it was a decent climb and a lot of steps up and over to the beach on the other side.
Along the way we walked past a series of large boulders scattered from an ancient volcano eruption in the area.
When we reached the viewing point Michelle was happy that she’d reached her ‘finish’ line and would be staying at this point and enjoying the views (as well as a good read of her book).
The views out over Wineglass Bay are stunning and show its perfectly shaped beach.
Andy took up his ‘SAS’ training and decided to go down the other side and take the 1,000 step down challenge. Added to this he wanted to beat the allotted 1.5hr return time to get back up.
The views of the beach just got better and better as Andy descended down and with so few people around it truly felt like we had the place to ourselves. Aside of course from fellow camper van walkers who we bump into at each sightseeing location.
After a walk along the beach and a brief dip of the toes in the water, Andy chased back up again and managed to complete this in just 45mins. I suspect he will sleep well tonight.
On the walk back down to the camper van, we came across a friendly wallaby who happily let us take photos of him as he munched on grass near the path.
More steps down…
More boulders….
And we did it, there and back in just over 1hr 45mins. A good work-out!
Getting back into the van we stopped at a couple more beaches that had been recommended, the one below is Honeymoon Bay.
After parking the van to walk up to Cape Tourville lighthouse we came across another friendly wallaby who clearly was looking for food. He seemed totally unbothered by the van or people being up close.
Begging for food….
The wind and views came as a package when we got to the lighthouse: A couple of times we both expected to see our caps fly off and into the sea below.
Tomorrow we continue north up the coast and head to the Bay of Fires Conservation Area, just north of St Helens, our planned stop for the evening. Until then.
The morning started early for Andy as he set out for his morning run of 10k, before we left Port Arthur at 8.30am and our return to Hobart for Saturdays Salamanca market.
On the way back to Hobart we stopped to take some photos at Norfolk Bay and Dunalley Bay where there wasn’t a soul around and the scale of the surroundings takes your breath away.
We managed to get back to Hobart for 10am and joined the throng of people working their way around the 300 stalls that make up the Salamanca market. It’s an array of Tasmanian produce, be that food, drink (lots of vodka, whiskey, wine, cider and beers….) as well as clothing, books and their authors as well as every possible item you never knew you needed!
Naturally there was Scottish pipe band playing….
The place was packed and clearly is a real draw to the city each Saturday. We both enjoyed trying a few treats, fudge, popcorn and nougat as well as the local gins and vodkas….
Tassie pie – curry flavoured with tomato juice on top!
Two hours later, we were all ‘marketed’ out and took our final walk around the docks and the floating seafood stalls and barges, before holding our nerve and not getting fish & chips for lunch, instead we got back in the camper and headed the 50 miles up the East Coast to Swansea.
New Mona Roma building – more stalls more food & wine!!Best fish & chips in Hobart (so we were told..!)The new camper with the Hobart bridge in the background
By mid afternoon we arrived in Swansea and took a stroll on the beach and soaked in the sea air. It’s a small place, blessed with a beautiful beach and also a great cafe for fish and chips!
We decided to treat ourselves and enjoyed the Horny Cray’s finest Hake and chips. Not bad for 16 dollars and a great view looking out across the beach.
The day finished with a great camping ground find, a free site a few miles north of Swansea looking out across King Bay on one side and Dolphin Sands on the other. With a beer in his hand Andy couldn’t have been any happier.
Tomorrow we are off to Coles Bay and then the infamous Wineglass Bay, involving a hike through Freycinet National Park and a walk to the Wineglass Bay lookout, before a 1,000 steps descend to the beach below.
We crammed in a lot today, after leaving Hobart at 8.30am to pick up a new campervan from the airport, we travelled 70 miles south down to the historic Port Arthur.
On the way down we stopped to take in the views of Pirates Bay in Eaglehawk Neck, the final causeway leading to our destination.
Due to the popularity of the viewing spot there was a well placed picture frame to capture instagram moments – naturally we duly obliged and joined the queue for our picture to be taken.
We then took the short drive and beach walk to marvel at the Tessellated Pavements formed in the rock from the battering of the sea waves. It’s so odd, as they do really look like they’ve been man-made and chiselled out to look like individual blocks.
Another few miles down the road took us to the Tasman Arch created over hundreds of years of sea erosion resulting in the collapse of an underground cave creating an inland ‘hole’ and a remaining arch way in the rock. It’s the scale of the arch that takes your breath away.
From there we walked a further half a mile to Devils Kitchen another sculptured rock form borne out of hundreds of years of battering from the sea. The drop from the cliff to the water is over 150ft and further highlights the force and scale of the sea as it changes the shape of the coastline. What surprised us both was that these two major attractions were quiet with the signage modest and low key.
We eventually made it to Port Arthur just after lunch and were taken aback by the scale of the historically preserved former convict settlement. It’s a major attraction and entrance required a payment of 90 dollars for the two of us.
Once we entered from the main building we understood why as the area to be discovered is significant with many of the original buildings from the 1850’s convict settlement time still standing.
Port Arthur from the bay Ship building remains
As part of the entry fee we got a ferry trip around the bay which provided great views of the former convict site as well as a series of islands and other sites where the prisoners worked cutting down trees and the resulting carpentry and iron monger’s buildings that enabled them to build ships for the first 25yrs of the settlements existence. Despite the work force being imprisoned, the quality of their work was by all account of a very high standard!
Our ferry in the background A gum tree planted by the prisoners in the 1840s. Mock up of the caucus of a shop Makes for an iconic view out to the bayThe main prison building, built first as a mill store and converted in 1850’s.
The main buildings became redundant after the settlement closed in the 1870’s when the Uk stopped sending convicts to Australia.
Sadly a lot of the original buildings were lost in part or altogether as a result of bush fires in 1897.
Two hundred year old possum footprints in the mortar At last a star jump from Michelle! Another fire another redundant church in Port Arthur The new smaller St David’s church Michelle in what looks like an English country garden Views from the main estate house gardens down to the beach Just one cornetto….fantastic Tassie icecreamDevils kitchen and the tunnel of water through the rockBackdrop from Devils kitchen Sea erosion at its most extreme
At first sight it looked like a series of buildings on the horizon but in fact was the impact of the ocean over hundreds of years.
Beautiful views from Basket Bay looking out to the Tasman Sea.
Sadly you see more flat on the side of the road than in the wild.
Cockatoo wants feeding Stewarts beach and AndyStewarts Bay – our beach whilst staying in the camp site in Port Arthur
Such a beautiful and unspoilt place but with such a barbaric history and beginnings, truly Port Arthur is a place of contradiction now offering a quiet place to reflect on the hardships that went before when it was first established.
Tomorrow we head back up the coast to Hobart to visit Salamanca market before heading up the East coast to stay in a small port town called Swansea.
What a start to the day, our first cooked breakfast in a very long time. After a proper Aussie classic of smashed avocado on sourdough toast with a couple of eggs and some bacon, we were both ready to face a busy one in Hobart.
Our first stop was a ferry to MONA (museum of old and new art). This was an experience we will not forgot, in part down to the scenery, architecture but mostly the themes which is best described by the owner of the museum as ‘subversive adult Disneyland’.
All board the Aussie adventure Hobart sunshine
Even before we arrived at the museum, we had picked up on the unusual whilst on the ferry. On the boat going out there were ‘sheep’ seats, as shown by Andy below.
As we left the boat, we were amused by the quote at the bar, the guidance of which we propose to follow for the rest of our trip! You’ve just got to love the Aussie mentality to beer…even though the quote isn’t from one of their own.
Our arrival at the museum, was somewhat James Bond like, with the building hidden underground and accessed from an entrance at the top of a hill. All very mysterious.
Outside of the museum were a number of artefacts, notably a giant horn like structure large enough for Andy to hide inside.
The view from the entrance gave nothing away, with the main area outside taken up by a large tennis court (?!) and a giant trampoline with large bells connected to the base.
After entering the museum we took a spiral staircase down about 100ft below ground. Once leaving the staircase we entered into a large auditorium with huge pieces of art, the one below was at least 40ft from top to bottom.
One of the next rooms had a display of coloured cans sitting on pallets. Very eye catching and somewhat surreal.
Off to the heavens, and a room with mirrored cloud ceilings.
A giant head with small glass viewing ‘screens’ which showed into the sculptures brain. Again a bit of a talking point.
We then moved on to a giant snake mural created from hundreds of independent pictures and images.
Porsche car ballooned across the chassis, which somehow works and really catches the eye.
Moving on to a water shower sculpture which creates different words from ‘rain fall’. Michelle managed to catch it when the word was ‘team’.
A few more weird and wonderful sculptures….
The sexual references throughout the museum were everywhere, thought provoking and often amusing. The image below is one of the ‘lighter’ touches.
After a couple of hours of very eye catching viewing we made our way back to the ferry back to central Hobart. Again the boat had a few unusual features…monkeys and tigers on the main deck.
After the MONA visit, we decided to do a walking tour of the city. First stop was the marina and a selection of boats and ships.
We then moved on to Battery Point, the oldest part of Hobart with the original Victorian buildings in all shapes and sizes, many dating back to the 1840’s and the whaling trading period.
After all this walking, lunch came calling and we treated ourselves to pies. I can safely say these were the best we’ve had in Australia.
We then aimed for Salamanca Place where monuments to the trading history of Hobart and its original discovery by the Dutch.
Hobart is blessed with some beautiful and diverse buildings and we got to see a number as part of our walking tour.
Down at the marina Celebrating the exploration to Antarctic Cruise ship in Hobart docksThe oldest pub in Oz
After walking past the oldest pub, we got in the mood and headed to Salamanca Place for an alfresco drink in the late afternoon sunshine. It’s been a good day in Hobart and one we’ve enjoyed. Tomorrow we return to camper life when we pick up our van and head down to Port Arthur to see the old prison colony.