@travellingwiththeateam

Another full day of activities in beautiful Kyoto with our fellow travellers for the week, Christophe & Barbs.

With a fair distance to be covered, we decided to go ‘premium class’ this morning and got an Uber to the Kinkaku-Ji, affectionately know as the Golden Pavilion.

We really struck it lucky with the weather, with a sunny, breezy day at 27c, not bad for mid-October. As a result of the warmer weather, Autumn hasn’t really started to make an imprint on the trees, with most still dark green and showing little sign of turning to the red tinge, we’d hoped to catch when we first arrived. Anyway what that meant was all the nature in and around the temple was a vivid green with bright clear skies and a toned moss colour on the forest floor.

The Golden Pavilion is one of Kyoto’s most iconic and beautiful landmarks.

It’s a Zen Buddhist temple known for its stunning gold-leaf covered exterior. The pavilion’s top two floors are completely covered in gold leaf, with the surrounding gardens just as impressive, designed in the traditional Japanese strolling garden style.

We got some great photos of the pavilion reflecting brilliantly in the surrounding pond.

The architecture reflects a combination of three styles, shinden (palatial home) samurai residence and Zen temple design.

The temple was built in the 14th century as a retirement villa for a shogun, but post his death it was converted into a temple.

The scenic paths & gardens provided wonderful views of the temple inside and outside and its reflection on the Mirror Pond, adding to the overall serenity of the site.

After an enjoyable couple of hours strolling round, we jumped into another Uber and headed 15mins down the road to the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove.

Nestled in the Arashiyama district, it’s one of the most famous and picturesque natural bamboo sites in Japan.

The grove is a vast forest of towering bamboo stalks that seem to stretch endlessly upwards.

We walked along the winding paths and took in the Tenryu-ji Temple and the Togetsukyo Bridge, and scenic views of the Hozu River and surrounding mountains.

The bamboo forest was stunning and despite the crowds, it retained a tranquil ambience.

It’s a serene and otherworldly experience walking through the bamboo forest and taking in the nature.

After leaving the bamboo forest, we visited Tenryu-ji Temple, another beautiful complex of buildings and stunning Japanese traditional gardens laid out in the most precise and elegant shapes and forms.

As we made our way to the subway, we came across Jinrikisha or rickshaw, a two-wheeled passenger cart pulled by one person carrying one or two passengers. Pulled rickshaws have had a renaissance and are used as a popular form of transport in tourist areas in Japan. The guy we saw was super fit and in the heat of the day was sweating profusely.

Our next stop was Nijō Castle, a flatland castle in central Kyoto. It consists of two concentric rings of fortifications, the Ninomaru Palace, the ruins of the Honmaru Palace, various support buildings and several gardens. In the sunshine it looked even more impressive helped by the reflections of the buildings in the water of the moat.

We walked around the castle for an hour or so, but in the heat, and after a large amount of culture and architecture we were all a little fatigued.

After an enjoyable day touring around the sights of the city, the evening was spent in a more relaxed way at a Soba restaurant close to the hotel.

Soba noodles are really good for your health because they are gluten-free, high in flavonoids, and help balance your blood sugar.

This was all helped down with a couple of great IPA’s and some fantastic fried chicken. The best way to finish a day.

Tomorrow is our last full day in Kyoto, so we are heading to philosopher’s path and the next door Ginkaku-ji shrine, then on to Kiyomizu-dera temple & finally the notorious Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine in the early evening.

A morning of travel that involved a taxi to the local station in Yudanka, then two local trains eventually arriving in Nagano, before picking up an express train to Nagoya, and finally changing to a Shinkansen (bullet train) ending in Kyoto.

The whole journey door to door was 5hrs and like everything in Japan, every train was on time to the nearest minute!

The pinnacle of our latest journey had to be getting the bullet train to Kyoto. It’s such an awe inspiring sight seeing the streamlined train arriving into the station.

Time to board the ‘bullet’ and enjoy the 300kph flight to the old capital of Kyoto.

At last we arrived and it was now time to get the subway in Kyoto to Gojo where we are staying for the next 3 nights.

We are staying at the Asai Kyoto Shijo, a Japanese chain we’ve had the pleasure to stay in when last in Bangkok. Although the rooms are a little bijou, they’ve got everything you need and all is elegantly arranged & presented.

After a quick unpack and change we headed down to the hotel bar for a beer, before going to explore Kyoto and an initial visit to the Imperial Palace.

We had a stroll around the expansive Kyoto Imperial Park and visited the Imperial Palace, the former home of the emperors of Japan.

The palace is of traditional Japanese architecture, and features beautiful gardens, gates and ceremonial halls, however visitors are not allowed inside.

After our visit to the palace, we headed towards the Kamogawa River, and our meeting point for a night’s walking tour around the Geisha district, close to our hotel in Gion.

We’d been told the best places to see geisha in Kyoto are Hanami–koji-dori in Gion (the section between Shijo-dori and Kennin-ji Temple) and at the Shijo-dori end of Pontocho.

Supposedly the best time to see them is around dusk (early evening), especially on weekends and holidays.

Having met up with our guide we started the night geisha walking tour at 6pm.

We spent the majority of the walk in Gion, home to significant historical landmarks including Yasaka Shrine, one of Kyoto’s most popular shrines, and Kennin-ji Temple, a serene Zen temple with beautiful gardens.

We visited both which offered a glimpse into Japan’s rich history and cultural heritage.

Our tour guide did his best to explain what makes a geisha.

Geisha are highly skilled entertainers who appear at high-end dinners, private parties and special events to add a special touch to the proceedings. They are NOT prostitutes, despite portrayals in certain books and movies.

Knowledgeable insiders estimate that there are about 100 geiko and 100 maiko in Kyoto. 

We were told that it’s easy to tell the difference between a maiko and a geiko: maiko wear colourful kimono with long sleeves and appear with their own hair worn up with a variety of extravagant hairpins (known as kanzashi), while geiko wear plainer kimono with shorter sleeves and appear wearing relatively unadorned wigs. Both maiko and geiko entertain guests and they often appear together at various functions.

Alongside the history of geisha, we took in the various Japanese restaurants sitting in historical buildings in and around Gion.

We then moved on to Yasaka shrine, one of Japan’s most historic and famous Shinto shrines. Originally founded in the 650AD, it is known for its vibrant vermilion buildings and distinctive gate, called the Romon Gate.

After 2hrs walking around the city, we were all starting to feel a little hungry, so we left the tour early and made our way to the Pontocho district.

It’s one of Kyoto’s most atmospheric dining areas. A narrow alley running from Shijo-dori to Sanjo-dori. The alley is packed with restaurants on both sides offering a wide range of dining options from inexpensive yakitori to traditional and modern cuisine. Despite being in Japan we opted for Chinese, in part down to the fact all the restaurants were full and hard to get a reservation!

At the end of the evening, we went for a wander down the alley and made a pledge that we would be eating sushi or Kobe beef the next evening!

Tomorrow we plan to visit the Golden temple, the bamboo forest on the outskirts of the city, before visiting Nijo Castle and the famous Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine in the evening, with a Japanese inspired meal for dinner.

Today was all about seeing the Snow Monkeys, which wasn’t a given due to the mild Autumn weather, but thankfully we did get to see three beautiful Japanese macaques.

The monkey residents reside in the Jinokudan Monkey Park. The monkeys are unique for their behaviour of soaking in the hot springs (onsen) during the winter months to keep warm.

In order to access the park, we had to hike through the beautiful woodland of Jigokudani, located in the Nagano prefecture.

Fortunately we were blessed with a warm sunny day and we soon reached the Monkey Park around mid-morning just after food had been put out to entice the wild monkeys.

Whilst the monkeys live in the wild, they are used to human presence, allowing visitors to get up close while the monkeys eat and relax in the warm sunshine.

We were fortunate to see three males who have forged a splinter group from a troop of 200 other snow monkeys.

Seeing them up close was a real privilege and you appreciate just how striking the monkeys thick fur is and how agile they are.

With food left on the rocks near the hot springs the monkeys were only too happy to hang around and let us capture their movements at close quarters.

Whilst we were only a few feet away, the monkeys seemed totally at ease with us and pretty much ignored our presence, with a couple happily walking past our feet to move from the rocks to the hot spring pool.

Needless to say we couldn’t help ourselves when it came to capturing their images and watching them interact with each other.

After observing the snow monkeys for almost an hour, we set off on our hike back down to Shibu Onsen and the opportunity to take in the glorious mountain air and scenery.

In search of more nature and trekking, we caught a cab out to Biwa Pond.

The mountain landscape offered up some stunning views and also the warning of a bears in the woods. This did not get a warm reception from Michelle & Barbs who both felt this was a risky move.

Fortunately despite the signs and the bear-bells, none were spotted, and the 3k walk around the pond and nearby Hirao ski area proved uneventful.

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The Sun Valley Ski Area that sits around the Biwa Pond at over 4,000m is a popular spot for hikers in the summer and Autumn months before the arrival of snow in early December.

After an enjoyable few hours exploring the mountain area and nearby ponds, we caught a local bus back to our hotel in readiness for a visit to an Onsen.

Tonight we have checked into a traditional Japanese room/ryokan, where we will be sleeping on futons.

We were presented with all the layers of bedding along with instructions on how to prepare our bed for the evening.

Before we headed to the public Onsen (hot spring baths) we were required to dress in traditional Japanese Kimonos.

Shibu Onsen, is a traditional hot spring town and this, alongside seeing the Snow Monkeys was the reason for our visit. Staying in a historic ryokan (traditional inn) offered us the chance to enjoy the same hot springs as the monkeys could enjoy, albeit in separate establishments!

In the town there were as many as 9 onsen and the girls decided to visit one, whilst Christophe and Andy went to another. The baths cater for up to 7-8 people at one time and you are required to go in naked and experience the heat of the hot springs. We both found the waters to be extremely hot, but very therapeutic and we can now understand the reason why some people visit almost daily. We definitely felt a benefit from the waters and it was a real experience to go in traditional dress and geta.

After an enormously enjoyable day in the mountains, we visited a nearby traditional Japanese restaurant with shoji/sliding partition doors and walls for ultimate privacy. The food provided a great selection of fried chicken, tempura seafood and pork katsu with a range of side dishes. All helped down by some local wine and a few Asahi Super Dry beers.

Tomorrow we are off early to Kyoto, via Nagano & Nagoya on a mixture of local trains, finishing on a Shinkansen (bullet train) for a 3 nights stay.

Looking forward to experiencing the historic Kyoto and all the various sights!

Our last day in Tokyo so we thought we’d finish our stay with another trip up a skyscraper.

This time we were going for free up to the 45th storey of the Tokyo Metropolitan Govt Building, or Tocho as ifs affectionately known, in Shinjuku.

Thankfully the weather was back to blue clear skies and as we arrived at the observation deck of the 45th floor of this iconic building the views were spectacular.

We had been told that on clear days you can see Mount Fuji, and on this morning that proved to be the case. With a good eye we could see the mountains and a peak within the clouds that we were informed was Fuji.

The building had two observation deck in each towers, some 665ft up, that provided views of the other Tokyo landmarks, including Tokyo Tower and the Skytree.

Inside the decks we found lots of info about the city and a few shops selling souvenirs.

The views across the city were stunning and offer a peaceful less crowded alternative to the busier observation decks we’ve previously visited in Tokyo.

It’s a must visit spot if you’re exploring Shinjuku or even looking for some of the best panoramic views in Tokyo.

Next stop was a visit to Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden.

This was another peaceful oasis in the heart of the city and offered beautiful Japanese, French and English styled gardens. It proved a relaxing stroll and we got to see the greenery of the park at its best.

We got chatting to a local Japanese guy who despite being the wrong side of 60, is a YouTube influencer who recommended a few places for lunch and what we should see in the park.

After our time at the park, we went back into the city for lunch and had a bento box, with a meal comprising rice, meat and some tempura. Added to this we had pickled vegetables with some gyoza and yakitori. The depachika delicacy was found at the barely of a department store where we got high quality ingredients.

After our lunch break in Shinjuku, we picked up our luggage and headed to Tokyo to get our train north to Nagano and on to Shibu Onsen up in the mountains.

The train to Nagano was one of the infamous bullet trains, known as a Shinkansen, that travels at 250kph+ and within 1hr 15mins we were at our destination.

After a subway train, bullet train, local train and eventually a local cab, the last with the aid of the local constabulary (the very helpful Japanese police) we eventually arrived in Shibu Olsen, a traditional Japanese spa village where we will be staying for the next two nights.

Our first Ryokan is a Japanese-style innfound throughout the country, especially in hot spring resorts such as Shibu Onsen. More than just a place to sleep, ryokan’s are an opportunity to experience the traditional Japanese lifestyle and hospitality, incorporating elements such as futon beds, Japanese-style baths and local cuisine, which makes them popular with foreign tourists like ourselves.

Staying in the village was also to take the opportunity to experience an Onsen, or local bath, to rest and relax in the hot springs in a communal environment. As we got here relatively late tonight we intend to take the waters tomorrow.

Instead we decided to head to a local bar for drinks and found a great standing bar or tachibomi, where despite the name we got to sit and were able to drink and relax.

Tomorrow we go in search of Snow Monkeys, the Japanese macaque.

Another fun packed day in Tokyo, our last one before we head north tomorrow to Nagano and a visit to the Snow Monkeys.

First stop was a short subway trip down to Shibuya Crossing the busiest pedestrian crossing in the world.

Our next port of call was a visit to the small statue of the faithful dog Hachiko, a popular meeting spot that holds sentimental value for the Japanese.

It’s located just outside Shibuya Station where we queued for 10mins to get our photos taken by an old Japanese guy who volunteers the service and is happy to help.

The world’s busiest pedestrian crossing, is a unique place as you watch hundreds of people cross the intersection at once. It’s an iconic symbol and in our view highlights Tokyo’s urban energy!

We got a great view of the crossing from Shibuya Scramble Tower close by, where you can look down from the 14th storey for free!

Next stop was Shibuya Sky, a rooftop observation deck offering panoramic views of Tokyo from the 45th floor roof (!) and is one of the best spots to take in the city skyline, day or night.

After the buzz of being up in Shibuya Sky, we came down to ‘earth’ and went in search of food at Shibuya Stream, which proved to be a pleasant area for a walk with a mix of cafes, and outdoor seating areas.

Sadly as it was still a little cool, we decided to opt for a menu indoors and had a fantastic ramen chicken curry that Barbs and Andy loved, whilst Michelle went with an egg, chicken and vegetables ramen that got the thumbs up.

We decided to then venture around the many shopping areas and headed for Shibuya Parca, an upscale complex featuring fashion & pop culture.

We were probably the oldest people in there, which didn’t stop us and Barbs made a purchase with some new earrings from a funky jewellers.

We then moved to the subway to purchase our train tickets from Tokyo Station to Nagano. Getting around the city has proved a real experience and one we’ve enjoyed for the most part. Everyone is so courteous and polite, the carriages are clean, there is no litter and it has a friendly environment.

After picking up the Nagano tickets we went back to Senso-Ji temple to see it lit up in the nights sky and minus the rain!

It was good to see the Asakusa area, including Nakamise-Dori shopping street in the dry and observe craft items being made and sold.

Once back at the temple it was a joy to behold lit up and glowing.

We were in this area tonight having booked to go to a sumo event with dinner which we were both very excited to see.

The sumo wrestling proved to be one of the best things we’ve done so far in Japan. The venue, food, drinks, compere, wrestlers and the crowd all made for a special night that we will remember for a long while.

Then the main event started and the arrival of the two sumo wrestlers. They played up to the crowd with some play acting before moving to the more serious act.

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We’ve so enjoyed today and the last 5 days in Tokyo. Hoping that the rest of Japan is as amazing an experience. Tomorrow it’s off to Nagano to see the snow monkeys for a couple of days before moving on to Kyoto.

Another wet day in Tokyo, but it was no time to worry about the rain as we set off to visit one of Tokyo’s most famous Shinto shrines, dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. Located in a forested area, it offers a serene and spiritual retreat from the bustling city.

The shrine was completed in 1920 following the death of the emperor to honour his role in modernising the country and leading it through the Meiji Restoration.

The shrine is surrounded by a 70 hectare forest with trees planted from all over Japan. The path leading to the shrine is marked by large wooden torii gates, symbolising the transition from the everyday world to the sacred.

Many visitors come to the shrine to pray for good health, fortune or success. We asked for all three to cover our bases!

Seeking our fortune and future success with a request and donation to the shrine.

Once we stepped into this shrine precinct, we forgot about are the hustle & bustle of the city, and started to immerse into the Japanese traditional scene in amongst all the wonderful greenery of the gardens and woodland.

After visiting the main sanctuary and museum, we headed to the Inner Botanical Garden. This was once Imperial Property and was commissioned by Emperor Meiji in part for Empress Shoken. 

In amongst the Inner garden, we visited the Iris garden and Kiyomasa’s well, which are both surrounded by bonsai trees and lakes. These are all set out as they were during the days of the Emperor.

Emperor Meiji encouraged the technological development of many domestic industries, including the sake production industry, as part of the modernization of Japan. These straw-covered sake barrels are offered to Meiji Jingu annually by the members of the Meiji Jingu Nationwide Sake Brewers Association. The brewers make this donation to show their deep respect for the enshrined souls of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken.

The barrels, which are decorative and empty, are offered to the kami deities along with the sake in bottles.

After our visit to Yoyogi Park, we wandered down through Harajuku towards Shibuya, walking past the numerous retail stores and malls, including Shibuya 109, which is a hub for cutting edge Japanese fashion.

From there it was a subway ride to Roppongi Hills, a major urban development featuring shops, restaurants and art spaces.

We were keen to immerse ourselves in some contemporary art and purchased tickets to visit Mori Art Museum at the top of the Mori Tower on the 47th floor.

Here we had the bonus of stunning views from the Tokyo City View observation deck.

The Mori museum was displaying works by Louise Bourgeois whose work we had previously seen in the Tate Modern in London about 15yrs ago. Louise’s work is notable for her huge Crouching Spider sculpture that was displayed outside the gallery.

Once inside we witnessed the full spread of work that Louise had carried out in her lifetime, which was varied in style and scale and charts the uneasy relationships the artist had with her parents & offspring, and subsequently her husband and three sons. It proved a very interesting and evocative display of art and the emotions that went into her work as she battled mental health issues and anxiety.

We had a really enjoyable time and were impressed by the diversity of the works on display.

Last stop was a visit to Tokyo Tower, a similar looking building to a certain Parisian structure. It was all lit up from a far, acting as a beacon to the incoming tourists.

We had purchased a ticket that took us to the 150m platform that offered great views across Tokyo. When built in the 1950’s this was the tallest building in Tokyo and Japan.

We made the most of our evening views, staying up the tower for almost an hour engrossed by the world below in downtown Tokyo.

Once back in Shinjuku, we had a short walk to our hotel and on the way came across a large truck with pictures of the host boys advertising their services….only in Japan.

Tomorrow we are off to Shibuya to witness the crossing, views from the sky tower and take in the maze of shopping malls and unique stores, with the evening entertainment being a visit to a sumo match and restaurant.

We woke today to find the sunshine gone and a day of rain. This didn’t deter us and we headed into central Tokyo to visit Senso-ji temple, the oldest and most famous Buddhist temple in Japan.

The area of Asakusa is vibrant, and the temple is a significant cultural site, offering a mix of traditional architecture, spiritual practices and of course bustling tourists.

The temple features a striking red entrance gate called the Kaminarimon (Thunder gate), adorned with a massive paper lantern.

Next door was a beautiful five storey pagoda, another key feature of the temple complex.

The temple’s main hall is a place for prayer where visitors can offer incense and make wishes. We felt like asking for the rain to stop!

The inner gate, Hozomon leads to the main hall where the statue of Kannon is located.

After leaving the temple we he went to look around Nakamise Shopping Street. The place was lined with small shops selling traditional Japanese souvenirs so Michelle bought a couple of fans as presents. We also had a look at the kimono fabrics and of course the sweets. It’s definitely a must to see and is one of the oldest streets in Japan.

The Asakusa area retains a sense of old Tokyo with narrow streets, traditional inns and small restaurants. It was a fantastic place to explore to get a more historical vibe for the city.

Late morning we headed down to the Imperial Palace to queue for the guided tour around the grounds in the early afternoon. It was a free tour and after securing our tickets and meeting up with Christophe and Barbs we battled the rain to walk around with a group of 300 others!

As the Imperial Palace serves as the home of the Emperor of Japan, we were restricted as to the places we could visit. It’s a historically significant and culturally rich site located in the centre of the city.

The original palace was damaged during World War II but was rebuilt in a traditional Japanese style in the post war period.

Surrounding the palace is a large moat and gardens, along with several parks. The main palace buildings, called the Kyuden, are used for official ceremonies and functions.

We got to see a slice of the palace and the Fukiage Garden, the private residence of the Emperor and his family.

The palace stands as a symbol of Japan’s rich imperial history, blending traditional architecture with the modern cityscape of Tokyo.

As Christophe had work matters to deal with in Yokohama, we said goodbye to him and Barbs for today, and went off to explore Ginza in more detail as it was close by.

First stop was Ginza Six, a luxury shopping complex that seeks to offer an exceptional six star shopping experience.

We then wandered around the nearby streets, passing the futuristic Nissan car showroom where we looked to pick out our new motor!

From there it was a trip to Uniqlo where Andy ‘invested’ in some new cashmere jumpers at half the price to the UK, before we made our way back across the city by subway to Shinjuku.

We returned to the Shinjuku cat (3D billboard). This digital calico cat looks incredibly realistic and has become a beloved favourite, with the cat appearing at certain times of the day. It’s one of the best examples of Tokyo’s cutting edge digital art.

Next door to the sign is Calico cat cafe, where friendly cats let you pat and play with them while you enjoy a drink. A great place to unwind for the cat lovers out there – we are more dog people so decided to pass on this occasion.

Tomorrow we are off to Meiji Jingu temple and a walk around the Yoyogi Park, before heading to Harajuku and on to Shibuya for some retail and people watching. In the evening we are up in the Tokyo tower and then move to Roppongi Hills for some art culture and a decent Japanese meal.

As last night was our last staying in the area of Shiomi, before we move west to Shinjuku, we decided to go and explore Odaiba close by.

The area is a popular entertainment and shopping district known for its futuristic vibe and attractions and was built on a man-made island in the bay.

It’s home to the iconic Rainbow Bridge, Fuji tv building, a replica of the Statue of Liberty and a life size Gundam statue.

The ‘life sized’ Unicorn Gundam Statue, a full-scale of the RX-0 Unicorn from the series, Mobile Suit Gundam Unicorn illuminates & moves every morning at 11am which more by luck we managed to see.

Obaiba even has a man-made beach, so with the sun shining we relaxed by Tokyo Bay and enjoyed the views of the city skyline & Rainbow Bridge.

After moving hotels to Shinjuku, on the west of the city we went to explore Harajuku and Takeshita Street. The first was a wonderful shopping area full of trendy shops where the young go to get the latest fashions.

We then strolled down to Omotesando, an upscale tree lined street known as Tokyo’s Champs-Elysees.

The area was a shopping haven with little streets running off in all directions with unique stores on every corner.

We then headed to Takeshita Street home of the famous crepes and the latest youth fashion.

Next stop the Tokyo Plaza known for its distinctive design and a wide range of stores.

The striking mirrored entrance is a famous feature and we managed to climb up to the roof, known as Omohara Forest, which offers a relaxing green space with great views over the city.

The area is a real melting pot of Japanese and international fashion brands, cafes and restaurants. We decided to take in some Japanese food as a late lunch with the obligatory Asahi beer.

Down on Takeshita Street with our crepes.

Here we came across one of the more surreal cafe experiences, a pig petting affair. One for the family?!

Later in the evening we joined a walking tour of the Shinjuku area and met up with the same guide as the city one a couple of days ago.

This was all about the bright lights of this city and the night life in all its weird and wonderful forms.

We visited Kabukicho, known as the largest red light district in Japan, with its neon-lit streets and host and hostess venues , love hotels and bars. It’s a definitely a lively area that stays active to the early hours .

We then visited Omoide Yokocho, also called Memory Lane or Piss Alley. You can guess the reason for the latest one! It’s a throwback to post war Tokyo filled with small old styled Japanese bars. All are very small and you sit up close to the other patrons in these traditional dinning stalls selling grilled chicken.

We then moved on to Golden Gai, a historic and quirky part of Shinjuku consisting of narrow alleyways packed with more tiny bars, up to 200 in total, seating fewer than 10 to each place. The bars are themed, offering an intimate drinking experience with a mix of the locals, tourists and artists.

The red light district was a real eye opener in many ways and showed the complexity of the Japanese culture and their views on host and hostess clubs and the industry that has been created from them. It’s so in your face with bill boards displaying the famous boys and girls offering their services.

It was quite a night, so at the end we were pleased to return to our hotel to get away from the craziness. Tomorrow we are meeting up with friends Christophe and Barbs who are in Japan for a week. We are going to have a look around the Imperial Palace with them and over the next few days see other parts of the city and the rest of Japan.

Back on the tourist trail with a 10am walking tour of central Tokyo, starting in Akihabara, famous as a destination for fans of anime, manga, video games, and idol culture.

Before that, it was known as the place to shop for discount electronics — in fact, Akiba’s original nickname was “Denki-gai” or Electric Town.

We were greeted by our local guide Horashi, a fun loving forty something who was wired, witty and wildly entertaining.

The area has gained recognition as the centre of Japan’s otaku ‘diehard fan’ culture.

Many shops and establishments are devoted to anime and manga dispersed amongst the electronic stores in the district.

As today was Sunday, Chuo Dori, the main street through the district was closed to car traffic and we ended up walking down along with thousands of other tourists and shoppers.

Akihabara has seen some redevelopment over the last decade, with the most prominent being the huge Yodobasbi electronics store next to the station.

The area offers everything from the newest computers, cameras, televisions, mobile phones, electronics parts and home appliances to second-hand goods and electronic junk.

Our next stop Yushima Seidō, located in the Yushima neighbourhood of Bunkyō, was established as a Confucian temple in the Genroku era of the Edo period.

From there we headed to Kanda Shrine, a Shinto shrine located in Chiyoda. The shrine dates back 1,270 years, but the current structure was rebuilt several times due to fire and earthquakes. It is situated in one of the most expensive estate areas of Tokyo.

The shrine attracts a lot of local families and weddings, and whilst we were there, at least two bride and grooms appeared in traditional dress looking incredible.

We then walked on through the maze of narrow streets, passing a few unusual offerings including a rabbit cafe, which was a change from the numerous cat cafes we’ve seen in both Japan and China.

Then it was time to visit the Ameyoko shopping street, although more a bazaar, selling trinkets, souvenirs, street food and lots more. The place was packed with people, not just Japanese but from all around the world.

There was street food on offer, in all its various forms from fried chicken to smoked and dried fish.

Saigo was one of the most influential samurais and often described as the quintessential hero of modern Japanese history.

Before we knew it, the 3hr walking tour had reached its conclusion and we felt a little more informed about Japanese and Tokyo history and had met a few interesting people in the process.

Having found ourselves in Ueno Park we decided to go and explore and centred on Shinobazu Pond and the Hasumi Deck.

From here we had great views over the huge lotus covered lake, which looks like it’s permanently blanketed in a green layer of leaves.

Within the centre of Shinobazu Pond is a Buddhist temple called Benten Do, where locals go to place offerings and seek guidance on their fortunes, with notes advising them if they are in luck or not. For those not receiving the right advice, they leave these less helpful notes tied to a fence to wash away the bad karma.

We then headed to Tosho-gu Shine and the Five Storied Pagoda, the former Kan’ei-ji temple.

It was initially built in 1617, during the Edo period and was enlarged during the time of the third shōgun.

The Karamon is a type of gate seen in Japanese architecture. It is characterized by the usage of kara-hafu, an undulating bargeboard peculiar to Japan. They are often used at the entrances of castles, Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines and have historically been a symbol of authority.

We decided to return to Akihabara to witness the venues specializing in manga, anime, and video games including Tokyo Anime Centre.

Along the way we caught a demo Japanese basketball game, which brought great excitement to the watching public. So great to see all of this entertainment as a passerby.

Akihabara pedestrian paradise happens every Sunday with the main highway closed to traffic and letting pedestrians walk freely. It meant for a very hectic and buzzing atmosphere intermingled with shoppers buying their electronics and visiting the themed cafes like heavens gate, where young girls dress as maids….sounds very odd, but the Japanese see it as being cute.

With some time to spare we walked through Kanda, a wealthy part of the city, full of financial offices and big skyscrapers before arriving next to the moat of the imperial palace. Unfortunately as it was late afternoon, the park and palace grounds were due to close so we plan to return for a guided tour on Tuesday.

The Imperial Palace grounds are surrounded by a historic moat and gardens leading up to the former Edo castle & Omiya Palace. It’s a stunning place even from the outside.

Tonight we had booked tickets to TeamLab planets, an immersive light and art exhibition that was recommended to us via a travel blogger. With this lined up for 7pm, we decided to grab dinner beforehand and found a great restaurant selling pork katsu and meso soup.

Whilst the place was definitely bijou, with seating for 15 at best, the service and food proved excellent and we soon cleared our plates ready for the evening’s immersive entertainment.

After catching the underground to Toyosu, it was a short walk to the park where the TeamLab Planets is based.

For anybody who hasn’t been to one of these before, we would definitely recommend visiting. Pretty sure there is one similar in London.

On entering you are required to remove your footwear and roll up your trousers and prepare yourself for a body and mind experience. The first immersive stop, was a waterfall with water flowing down a steep slope which you climb indoors in the dim light. It’s all unexpected and takes you out of your comfort zone. We then went into a room with soft spongy flooring and were encouraged to lie down and enjoy the sensation.

From there we went into an illuminated mirrored room with long thin lights hanging from the roof that changed as with light colours varied. Hard to properly explain but very cool and intoxicating.

The reflections created in the mirrored room from the walls and floor was hypnotic and changed your perspective to the space you were in.

The next room was filled with water to knee height, with illuminated lights and fish shapes swimming around. Again mind altering and a weird sensation.

Next room giant white balls that bounced around on the ground and above your head.

One of our favourites was a 360 degree doomed room with flowers and petals floating above your head creating this otherworldly feel.

The last room included live flowers, hanging from the ceiling, that go up and down and go as low as being just a foot above the ground. With the room being mirrored on the floor and the walls it created a fully immersive environment of flowers all around. Not sure that description does it justice, as it was such a beautiful space.

Decided to let the flower pictures do the talking as it was truly beautiful and amazing.

After a great evening we headed back to the hotel around 10pm for a well earned rest and to plan our next days adventure and our change of hotel to the Shinjuku area.

After a great 8 days in South Korea it was time to wave goodbye.

The morning involved numerous forms of transport, starting with the Uber to the Incheon Airport at 6.15am, where we very quickly worked our way through check in, security and getting to the gate.

With just 90mins before the flight, it was time to catch up with messages to family and friends before we boarded the Korean Air flight to Tokyo, a short flight just under 2hrs.

We have been so impressed by how modern, clean and well ordered everything is in Seoul and the airport experience maintained that view, with boarding to the flight being bang on time and the departure of our flight being 5mins early!

Once on the flight, the service with Korean Air was impressive, good selection of drinks and a decent cooked meal, despite the relatively short time in the air.

Within 2hrs we had landed in Tokyo, the eleventh country we have visited so far on our tour.

On to our third mode of transport by 1pm, we were on the train into Tokyo, a 55min journey into the heart of the city.

On to the fourth mode of transport today, the Tokyo underground and a relatively short journey of 3 stops to Shiomi, out in the east of the city where we are staying at a fabulous place called Hotel Kaie. Great service and lovely rooms.

Only in Japan, our hotel room, though modest in size came with matching pyjamas that get changed each day!

After a quick turn around, we unpacked and then headed back into the city to visit the Ginza area for a bite to eat and a lot around the prestigious shopping streets, akin to Bond Street and 5th Avenue.

We managed to grab some front of house seats enabling us to watch the chefs.

After a wonderful dinner and drinks in a great restaurant in Ginza, we went for a wander around the magnificent shopping area.

Despite the wet weather that greeted us on our arrival in the city, we found Ginza to be a busy place and full of the buying public.

Ginza is wall to wall premium shopping with every global brand being represented.

Japanese brands are also well represented with Nissan showing off its plans for the future of the automobile.

As for the shops, they go from the ground to the 7th, 8th even the 9th floor, with Uniqlo’s flagship store sitting over the 10 floors!!

After a busy day travelling, then eating, drinking, watching and shopping in Ginza, we eventually retired back to our hotel in Eastside in time to sport our freshly ironed pyjamas.

Time for bed…

Tomorrow it’s walking tour time again starting in Akihabara, before a visit to Ueno Park and an evening visit to the immersive Teamlab Planets in Toyosu.