@travellingwiththeateam

An early start, with the morning alarm going off at 6.15am. After a swift breakfast, we were soon on a coach heading out of Hanoi and into the hilly countryside.

The drive took the best part of 3hrs and just before entering Mai Chau we stopped at a hillside viewing point to look down on the area below.

The hillside pass meant that we looked down on the town as though in an airplane such was the height.

As the photo sign says below it was a Top View.

Once out of the coach it was clear today was going to be a sunny hot day and out came the sunblock in readiness for the afternoons cycle around the area.

The valley below was so very flat, which was good news for the cycling that was to come post our early lunch.

After arriving at the destination, we started with a very impressive lunch with various dishes all from local produce. It’s fair to say we haven’t ate so well for lunch in a good while. So impressive and very healthy.

Behind the restaurant we went in search of our bikes and had to navigate around one of the families animals resting in the field.

Around the homestay starting point, were fields upon fields of paddy fields with the second rice crop of the year just starting to become established.

Our bikes for the tour around the area were a little makeshift, but after getting used to the basic features we were soon on our way.

This part of Vietnam is so beautiful and unspoilt. August is the hottest time of the year and is the low season for tourists. There were very other people around, so we could cycle freely along the quiet lanes, soaking in the wonderful views.

Our first stop was at a local families house where the lady has been weaving and selling her wares for over 60yrs. She was so lovely and keen to share her skills and we felt privileged to be able to hear her story.

After watching the lady, Michelle got in on the act and tried her hand at weaving. our daughter Amelia would have been so impressed, as she weaves on her University course doing Textiles and Design.

Then it was Andy’s turn, not as skilled as Michelle but a trier all the same!

After walking around her shop/home Michelle decided to purchase a silk scarf and we got a photo with the lady who made it.

We were then off again, cycling through the paddy fields to a nearby village to see other local craft products.

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After a hour or so on the bike, Michelle was starting to enjoy the ride and had got to grips with the bikes dodgy brakes and bike stand.

As the heat of the day continued to rise, we stopped for an ice lolly to help with the dehydration.

Before we knew it the 2.5hr cycle ride had come to an end and it was time to re-board the coach for the return journey to Hanoi.

We had some fun on the bikes and met a lovely family from Singapore, who were enjoying a break with their two adult daughters. Great to hear about their lives and how they met. By coincidence they got married only a month before we did!

Once back on the road, it was soon snoozing time, as we drove for a couple of hours through driving rain before we hit the outskirts of Hanoi. After navigating through the rush hour of the city, our driver dropped us back at our hotel just after 6pm and it was time to relax.

Another day, another tour, but before that we had more places to explore in the beautiful city of Hanoi.

Our first stop this morning was St Joseph’s Cathedral, a Roman Catholic Church established by the French in the late 1880’s and now supporting the 4m catholics in Vietnam.

The church is situated in the Old Quarter and is of a neo-gothic style and is named after the patron saint of Vietnam.

The church was one of the first structures built by the colonial government of French Indochina, when it opened in December, 1886 and is the oldest church in Hanoi.

The church is located at the end of the Nhà Thờ Street and the corner of Nhà Chung Street, an upscale market area with boutiques and silks, as well as restaurants, many of a French orientation.

After leaving the cathedral behind we walked to the Temple of Confucius. The temple hosts the “Imperial Academy”, Vietnam’s first national university. The temple was built in 1070 at the time of Emperor Lý Thánh Tông.

It is one of several temples in Vietnam which is dedicated to Confucius, sages and scholars.

The various pavilions, halls and statues are places where offering ceremonies, study sessions, and the strict exams of the Dai Viet took place. 

The temple layout covers an area of over 500,000 square feet, including the Văn lake, Giám park and the interior courtyards which are surrounded by a brick wall. In front of the Great Gate are four tall pillars. On either side of the pillars are two stelae commanding horsemen to dismount.

The main gate opens onto three pathways which continues through the complex. The centre path was reserved for the monarch and the path to the left for the administrative Mandarins, with the path to the right is for military Mandarins.

The construction of the stone stelae began in 1484. In total there are 116 steles of carved blue stone turtles with elaborate motifs to honour talent and encourage study. The turtle is a symbol of longevity and wisdom.

The first two courtyards are quiet areas with ancient trees and trimmed lawns, where scholars would relax away from the bustle of the outside world.

On each side of the ceremonial courtyard stands two halls. Their original purpose was to house altars to the seventy-two most honoured disciples of Confucius.

In the fifth and last courtyard we entered we came across an upper floor which is dedicated to the three monarchs who contributed most to the foundation of the temple and the academy. These date back over 1,000yrs!

On either side of the rear building are smaller buildings which hold a drum and a bronze bell which are more later additions and all added to the splendour of the temple grounds.

After an interesting few hours, we headed back to the hotel in readiness for our late afternoon food walking tour.

On our way over to the meeting point we came across an interesting promotion with cyclists fully adorned with sale logos and matching outfits.

Our guide for the 4hr tour was a local called Lucy, who proved to an amusing and knowledgeable guy. We were soon off exploring the back streets of the city, going down narrow walkways, observing how some of the residents live in modest surroundings.

Lucy explained the history behind the narrow houses that exist around the city, created as a result of families preserving street frontages for multiple children where they were able to have a trading frontage to sell their goods. Some of the narrow houses go up and up often as high as eight or nine storeys.

Our first food stop was to watch the making of rice paper rolls. Despite looking quite plain on first viewing, the rolls along with a dip of fish soup with onions, chilly and mint proved delicious.

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Our rice rolls were made in a few seconds and we were soon working our way through half a dozen each.

From there we walked through one of the busy sections of the Old Quarter where we mastered the art of crossing the road as a local. Walk slowly and ignore all beeps from cars and bikes and just keep going!!

We then tried sugar cane drink, with a touch of lemon, which served chilled was very sweet.

We then did two more food stops, spring rolls & dried beef noodles in one place and the famous Banh Mi. After all that we were truly full and in need of a liquid refreshment. Fortunately our final stop was a beer at the Train Street where we had gone the night before.

It was great to meet other travellers on the tour, there was a great mix from Holland, France, South Africa, South Korea and of course England. A really enjoyable evening and a lovely way to finish another fun day in Hanoi.

Tomorrow we are off on a days excursion to Mai Chau, a 3.5hr drive out west to the countryside to marvel at the rice fields as we cycle around the pretty villages.

With a 7am pick up tomorrow, we left the rest of the tour group at 9.30pm on Train Street and headed back.

The day started with an Old Quarter Trishaw Cycle tour. We had the opportunity to relax whilst our driver pedalled us to many of Hanoi’s highlights from the French colonial times.

We had an unobstructed view with our driver behind us and we were able to take plenty of photos. Some with the driver!

We passed Dong Xuan Market, the largest indoor market seeing a range of produce, souvenirs and clothing.

The old quarter is an intriguing neighbourhood home to a mix of Vietnamese architecture, parks, ancient shops and temples as well as more current street food establishments. At first the 36 streets that make up the Old Quarter felt quite frenetic, but the constant motion and action is all part of its charm.

Many of the bicycle vendors we passed were selling goods including flowers, ripe fruit, as well as roadside cooks selling pho and bun cha.

The streets in the Old Quarter tend to been characterised by selling specific products. We went down one such street only selling lanterns and piggy banks!

Our route took us into the Chinese district where we came upon a dragon…celebrations were in full swing and it was so surreal to see this come out of nowhere.

The longer the tour went on the more we were intrigued by moments in hidden alleyways and secluded pagodas along with cosy coffee shops.

As the tour came to an end, we thanked our guide with a tip and headed to a roof top coffee shop to take in the views over Hoan Kiem lake.

The coffee shop, called Laika is perched on the 5th floor with unspoilt views across the Old Quarter. We tucked into an iced coffee with coconut cheesecake which was a taste to behold.

After a relaxing break, we meandered around the lake and on to the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum and the One Pillar pagoda before moving on to the botanical gardens and Tran Quoc pagoda. Despite the heat of the day, we were keen to walk around and see the key sights.

Along the way we past Note Coffee, where people leave a note on the wall or outside of the building with their thoughts for the day.

The lake area is beautiful and being a Sunday was busy with families and also those seeking to keep fit with impromptu classes along the water front.

The roads around the lake are closed to traffic over the weekend making it ideal for kids in their makeshift miniature cars…!!

As we walked to the mausoleum we stopped off at a cycle shop for Andy to revel at the latest designs.

Other streets offered up a mix of lanterns and the infamous train street, which we visited later in the day.

The area around Ho Chin Minh mausoleum was marked by a statue of Lenin and was awash with security.

Once we arrived at the mausoleum, Michelle sadly wasn’t able to go into the grounds as she had bare knees (!), a big no no, so Andy went inside and took a view quick photos before returning and we moved on to our next stop.

Nearby we came across the One Pillar pagoda a very understated building.

After a brief walk through the botanical gardens, we reached Tay Lake and Tran Quoc pagoda marking the oldest Buddhist temple in the whole of Hanoi dating back over 1500yrs.

The pagoda is located on a small island. There is a great deal of Buddhist symbolism at the Tran Quoc with lotus flower statues representing purity of the mind, body and speech.

Just in case people are unaware of the correct way to follow the law of karma they provide helpful illustrations. Some serious and some somewhat surreal.

The island is covered in trees and bonsai plants and was very busy with locals making offerings to Buddha and the resident monks.

With a further walk on to the Old Citadel, we stopped off for an ice cream. You’ll find stores selling them across the city for as little as 25p.

Continuing with our walking theme we headed to the Old Citadel where part of the old pagodas and walled palace once stood. Most was lost when the French arrived in the 1800’s who ordered the palace to be demolished and replaced with a colonial military complex.

The remains of the Citadel were however impressive and part of the original structure from the 1100’s has been excavated and preserved.

When we arrived in the late afternoon the gardens were being cropped by a team of workers with the most basic of materials and hedge shears.

As we experienced at the Hue Citadel locals like to dress up and have pictures taken in traditional dress. We came across a young couple who agreed to let us take photos.

The manicured gardens were beautiful and we enjoyed a hour of so wandering around the grounds and taking in the old historic buildings and decorations.

Our next stop was to Train Street to watch the arrival of local trains along the narrow street with bars and restaurants sitting immediately on each side.

As the 6pm train time nearer, the numbers of people started to swell as we readied ourselves for the train a foot or so in front of us.

When the time came the first train appeared almost without warning. After 25yrs commuting into London, Andy was quick to point out that he had seen his fair share of trains at close quarters to last a lifetime!!

As it turned out there was another train due to arrive at 6.15pm so we stuck around.

It was a little quieter this time and we were able to get a good spot for the trains arrival.

At last the train and we got our selfie just at the right moment.

After a hectic day of doing tourist stuff, we grabbed a bite to eat at a nearby Vietnamese restaurant and enjoyed Bi Cuon and Cam Ga Rau Thom. Essentially chicken and rice with wraps and rolls.

From there we walked through the night market and picked up a few more gifts for our daughter and friends as well as a new ‘looky likey’ t-shirt for Andy.

Feeling all walked out, we returned to the hotel after a successful day of Hanoi attractions.

More to follow tomorrow with a food walking tour to look forward to.

Today was our final morning on Cat Ba Island before our limousine pick up at 12.30pm. Before leaving, we made the most of our last few hours at the MGallery hotel.

Michelle had her latest book to finish so was ensconced in her reading in the hotel reception.

Andy went on a wander around the hotel and took a few snaps of its stunning bar, entrance foyer & entrance. It’s been a real pleasure staying here for the last 5 nights.

Before we go, we took one last visit to the beach with the sun in full flow (typical as we are leaving) and soaked in the view across the little islands facing us.

To cap it off, there was the view of the pool and our room up on the 5th floor.

After a 25min wait in the midday sun, the very fancy limousine coach turned up.

Within 20mins we had crossed the island and were back at the car ferry where we joined as foot passengers and enjoyed the 15min sail across to the main land.

Track forward another 2hrs and we were back in Hanoi after a 3 month break and were keen to explore the Old French quarter.

Our hotel is right in the thick of the action, staggering distance from ‘beer street’ and other more cultured attractions.

After re-acquainting ourselves with the key sights, we headed out for a walk around Hoan Kiem Lake, a popular spot in the city and a great place to enjoy the sights.

We bought tickets to visit the Den Ngoc Son temple and crossed the famous red bridge to enter into the temple grounds.

From what we understand this is one for the most visited tourists spots in Hanoi, so a good starting point as we ‘tick’ off the must sees!

The scenery in Hanoi is spectacular and it’s such a wonderful city to explore. As today is Saturday it’s pretty busy, but the people are friendly and welcoming and you soon get into the groove of the Old French quarter.

The history of the temples dates back almost a thousand years with many featuring Chinese writing and images, reflecting the dominance that China had on the country right up to the 1800’s when France stepped in with their own colonial rule.

As we strolled around the lake, Andy picked out a local who was sporting a t-shirt that made us both smile. After a little explanation we managed to get him to pose in our photo – loving the Porsche reference..!!

No afternoon in Hanoi is complete without an ice-cream. We’d been recommended this local store which proved very reasonable at just 50p for a soft scoop.

Local group of dancers busting a few moves!

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We were eager to explore and discover the famous ‘themed’ side streets, selling art, music, kitchen utensils, fans, even trains…

Hanoi is the home of copy-cat goods, so with Andy in need of a new pair of sunglasses we headed to a street that only sells sunnies…5 mins later, Andy was sporting a new pair of Ray-bans for just £8.

Later into the evening we went in search of more goodies and picked up some more ‘bargains’ with both of us buying replica aftershaves and perfumes. At least we should smell a little better for the next few weeks.

On the final walk to the hotel, around 9pm we watched a local group performing old traditional Vietnamese music. Great experience and so atmospheric.

Our hotel sits in an area awash with street art and given the amount of bars, it’s perhaps not surprisingly that they come with a drinking theme.

Tomorrow we have a full day of activities in front of us, starting with a Trishaw cycle tour in the morning, before we head over to the Ho Chin Minh memorial, One Pillar and Tran Quoc Pagodas as well as a visit to Train Street to watch a train coming along the track right next to our bar table. Until then.

After a few days wait, the promised sunshine has arrived, along with reduced winds, and so off we go on our cruise around Lan Ha Bay.

Our tour guide picked us up in town at 8.30am and we were at the port with a group of 25 other tourists and locals for a day on the water.

After departing the harbour and making our way to the straits of Cat Dua Island, also known as Monkey Island, the waters started to become choppy. The captain then announced we would be taking an alternative route keeping within the bay and avoiding the open seas…..!!

As we motored along the bay, with the many smaller islands acting as a buffer to the open rougher seas, the waters remained flat and calm much to Michelle’s relief.

The views across the bay and islands are reminiscent of Ninh Binh and Ha Lan Bay, with steep small cliff islands jutting out of the water, appearing so other worldly.

After cruising for an hour or so, manoeuvring between inlets, we came to the largest section of Lan Ha Bay, where we stopped and prepared ourselves for some kayaking.

With ever improving skies and a host of stunning little beaches to explore, we were quickly into our swimmers and ready for some adventure.

We are so excited to be doing this cruise and kayaking, given how unsettled the weather in Cat Ba has been for the last few days.

We had a brief team chat about where we were heading in the kayaks, and then we were off into the bay.

This was the first time that we had been in a kayak together, however this didn’t hold us back and Michelle was soon proclaiming herself as a natural!

We paddled across one of the main bays to a small beach, where pre Covid there had been a small resort. It’s since been demolished and the authorities are restricting developments to preserve the areas beauty and the coral reefs that exist in the bays.

Post kayaking we were soon treated to a pleasant Vietnamese lunch of rice, chicken, potatoes and fish. It’s truly amazing what they are able to rustle up on these small boats and how healthy the food is.

Post lunch we stopped in a small inlet and it was soon time for a swim and a spot of diving off the boat’s upper deck.

Watching some of the younger and more daring guests on the boat, Andy started to work up the courage to follow and was soon jumping in, although with less aerodynamic dives!

The afternoon was a relaxing affair and we enjoyed a slow tour of the inlets and bays around Cat Bai Island, avoiding the more exposed and choppy waters around Bo Hon Island, in the lower reaches of Ha Long bay. It’s a shame we didn’t get to see this part, however after hearing the stories about the boat nearly sinking two days before we were pleased about the decision!

With more time to spare, we settled into some sun bathing on the top of the boat and chatted to some of the other guests on the boat, who were mainly Europeans from Spain, Italy and France.

Getting out on the cruise was a fitting way to spend our last full day in Cat Ba and as the day came to a close we made the most of the scenery and grabbed a few more pictures.

Towards the end of the cruise we passed a floating fishing village, one of the largest and dating back over 50yrs.

It’s incredible to witness how the people on these floating islands live and work in such constrained environments, but seem happy and contented.

The sea of floating houses stretched all the way along one section of the coast and almost back to the port where we set off from.

Once back on land, we were soon on a coach and returned to our hotel, where we relaxed on the beach and enjoyed the hotel pool on the final night of our stay.

Tomorrow we are getting picked up by coach and head back up the island to the car ferry, before a two hour drive to Hanoi.

We then have 5 days in the city, to explore the old French Quarter along with a day trip to Mai Chou. It’s then time to say goodbye to Vietnam and start the next part of our tour in Beijing, China on the 10th August.

Day 4 in Cat Hai and at long last the rain has abated!

With this good news, we have made firm plans to go on a cruise around Lan Ha Bay on Friday.

Keeping with a morning of planning ahead, we spent a few hours mapping out our movements in early October when we visit Japan for a month.

Late morning Andy was back on the gym treadmill putting in a stretch and a 6k run.

After a productive morning, we headed into the centre in search of a post office to send postcards and presents to our young nephew and nieces back in the Uk.

The town has a fleet of yellow electric carts that go up down the main streets offering lifts at a very reasonable rate of just 10,000 dong (30p).

After a bit of searching we eventually found a post office and picked some great stamps depicting a Vietnamese village scene.

Next stop was a hair cut for Andy. His last visit to the barbers was in Manly in January, so it was very much in need, as the picture below shows.

The barbers shop was a modest affair, but you couldn’t fault the service and Andy was soon lying down getting his hair washed in readiness for the latest Vietnamese styling..!!

And off we go. Within a matter of moments the shaver was out and there was no going back.

Within 15mins the masterpiece was completed and Andy was a young man again, with short cropped hair and a sculptured beard.

To celebrate our productive day, we stopped off at Like Coffee on the seafront, for you’ve guessed it a cappuccino and a fruit juice.

With sunset on the horizon, we had a slow walk back to our hotel where we treated ourselves to drinks at the rooftop bar looking back across Cat Hai.

Our hotel has helped to make the stay really enjoyable,so if you ever find yourself on the island we’d definitely recommend Hotel Perle d’Orient from the McGallery chain. Our room looking out over the bay has a view you just don’t forget.

Tomorrow we are up early and at long last a cruise around the lower Ha Lang & Lan Hay Bays and islands.

Our ongoing stay in Cat Hai has again been weather affected. With rain forecasted for all of today, we have parked our plans to go on a cruise around Lan Ha Bay until later in the week.

Instead is was another low key day around the hotel pool, dodging the rain and going for walks when the clouds passed.

This morning we walked into Cat Hai to look at the options for a day cruise and have decided to go out on Friday, in the hope that the rain & wind will pass in between.

As Michelle read by the pool, Andy researched our plans for Hanoi, our last stop in Vietnam and where we plan to spend 5 days. It’s a combination of trips around the Old French Quarter, walking and a Trishaw cycle tour, along with a visit north to Mai Chau for the day to see the famous stepped rice fields.

With the weather improving ever so slightly, we ventured into Cat Hai late afternoon for dinner.

Whilst still cloudy, it remains very muggy and Andy soon regretted wearing his long sleeved shirt!

The gardens around the port are really well kept and we witnessed the hedges and bushes being trimmed and sculpted. Feels like they have a big summer festival coming up.

As the early evening light started to fade we returned to a restaurant we visited on our first night called Quiri, which does a mix of traditional and western culinary offers. We went for soup and a sticky chicken rice dish. Both were tasty and very reasonable, with the whole meal including a couple of beers being just £8 for the two of us.

Although tonight is Wednesday, the centre had a real weekend feel to it, with lots of families out and lights and decorations around the port entrance. Lit up, the place has a real colourful and vibrant feel.

Cat Hai is going all out with its lights & coloured illuminated trees. A real sight to behold and very popular with the locals.

We walked the full length of the seafront and marvelled at the sparkling hotels and restaurants that make for a great holiday destination, popular with Vietnamese and travellers alike.

We woke this morning to dark skies and impending rain.

This didn’t stop Andy heading out for a run around Cat Hai, although he soon found himself in a monsoon rain storm.

We decided to rest up in the hotel and watch the weather unfold from the comfort of our balcony. Clearly there are worse places to be, and we soon got settled in watching the hardy Vietnamese swimming in the sea below us despite the increasing waves.

We took a short video of the rainfall, which amusingly is at the time when England is going through a mini heatwave.

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We used the time indoors to organise our plans for our stay in Beijing, which is just 10 days off. We have booked a series of tours around the Forbidden City, Summer Palace, Confucius Temple and Temple of Heaven.

As the rain abated we headed out to brave the elements and went for a coastal walk to the next bay, where we came across the Flamingo hotel, with all its green planting.

Although the winds were still up and the sea was choppy, this doesn’t seem to stop the locals who were in the water in their droves.

We returned along the coast path and went to the hotel pool where Michelle proved to be the bravest and went for a swim, ignoring the cooler air and light rain.

The rest of the day was spent reading & planning our visit to Japan, where we are meeting up with friends from the UK.

Early evening we took a stroll into Cat Hai to find a place for dinner. After a couple of near misses, we came across a seafront cafe where we indulged in some comfort food (more pizza).

Post dinner on our walk back we came across a customary sign, found across the whole of SE Asia, confessing love for the town/city/island in big illuminated letters – I love….

Once back, the rain returned, so we settled in for an early night.

Back on the road today, with a 3hr bus ride north to Cat Ba Island. We left Ninh Binh early, just before 7am and timed it well, leaving behind heavy rain clouds.

Our bus journey proved to be quicker than expected, and we arrived at Cat Hai Island for our short car ferry at 10am.

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It’s fair to say, that communication once we were at the ferry wasn’t the best and we trailed after a few fellow local passengers from our bus, picking up our luggage and joining the boat as foot passengers before picking up a fresh new coach once on Cat Ba Island.

The ferry ride was only a short hop of roughly a mile or so, which was probably a blessing as the boat looked like it had seen better days, with more bumps & scrapes than a dodgem car!

The crossing over to the main island is also accessible via a large cable car, however whilst we were waiting for the ferry, we noticed that the cable cars had been stopped for upwards of 20mins and at that height it would have stopped being an enjoyable view!

After a short bus journey once on the island, we arrived at our hotel the MGallery, a real 5 star treat. It’s located in a fantastic spot looking out across the beach and onto Lan Ha Bay.

With the afternoon opening up and the sun putting in a short appearance we headed to the beach and a brief dip in the warm waters. The bay is surrounded by a series of mini islands akin to Ha Lang Bay but thankfully less touristy.

Andy was feeling adventurous so went for a walk along the headland and on to the next beach where we came across a stunning hotel called the Flamingo, which appeared to be at one with its surroundings, with green planting at each floor and balcony.

With the weather proving to be a little unpredictable we went for a brief tour of the hotel grounds and the various pools, one of which sits adjacent to the sea with views out beyond the pool bar (!) and out across the small bay.

Having missed lunch and had only a brief early breakfast, we went to nearby Cat Hai in search of dinner and found a great place opposite the harbour.

Quiri restaurant proved to be a favourite with Westerners and we were soon tucking into a couple of IPA beers and veggie curries which were delicious.

After an enjoyable meal, we went to explore the town and to organise a boat trip to cruise around Lan Ha Bay, which is deemed to be as beautiful as Ha Lang Bay but without the crowds. All being well the plan is to go out in a couple of days time when the weather improves.

After a walk around the seafront we headed into the market and came across some locals with their seafood catch. It’s shellfish of some sort, but as to what type we are unsure!

Like other beach towns in Vietnam, Cat Ba seafront has its fair share of illuminated attractions.

After a pleasant walk around Cat Hai we returned to our hotel early evening and had a relaxing time up on the roof top, before retiring to bed and some much needed sleep after our early start this morning.

Tomorrow, subject to the weather, we plan to go for a coastal walk and take in the views out across the bay.

Today we were back on the tour front, this time in an old American jeep exploring the back roads & nature of Ninh Binh.

We were introduced to our ride, by our driver an old Vietnamese guy sporting a green safari hat.

We felt like extras in the classic film ‘Good Morning Vietnam’!

We started our trip through Tam Coc, visiting Thai Vi temple. The temple belongs to Trang A Complex and is surrounded by a terrain of limestone mountains and swamps, alternately regarded as Ha Long Bay inland.

According to Feng Shui, the temple is set in a location benefitting from its surroundings, with majestic high mountains standing side by side and Ngo Dong River flowing in front of.

Accessing this area can only be achieved either by boat or by bike or if you’re really lucky a 4-wheeled drive jeep!

The area is truly stunning, with the river and paddy fields intertwined around the steep mountains formed as a result of a shifting in the tectonic plates many millions of years ago.

Our driver was very skilled and knowledgeable about the area and was soon taking us properly off road along routes that no other vehicle would be able to access.

Of the activities that we’ve done to date in Vietnam, this is up there as one of our favourites. Getting to see nature and the wildlife up close, with a gentle cooling breeze helping to offset the humidity that you otherwise can’t escape.

We made a few impromptu stops during the tour, with visits to Thung Nang and Den Voi.

Driving through Thung Nang you are total immersed in the beautiful natural scenery. The riversides are covered by grass and diverse fauna systems. Despite being a popular tourist destination, Thung Nang still retains the untouched natural beauty. 

It’s such a fantastic feeling driving to these unspoilt parts of the Vietnamese countryside, surrounded by green fields, enjoying the fresh air, all wrapped up in the poetic scenery.

We were surprised to see so many white ducks in the fields, however it was explained to us that they help to eradicate the unwanted snails that can eat the rice crops and in turn bbq duck is a delicacy in the region!

After witnessing the array of ducks, we then came across a herd of goats, happily grazing beside the road and totally unfazed by our incoming jeep at close quarters.

As we ebbed ever further away from Tam Coc, we felt like we were almost completely on our own, traversing routes that no other driver, brave or foolish, had taken for some time.

All the while, we had to keep pinching ourselves realising how fortunate we are to see such beautiful scenery.

We meandered through endless paddy fields and along narrow paved roads, sitting a matter of a few inches above the water table ‘floating’ our way through the valley.

After a hour or so, we arrived at Bich Dong Pagoda, which we originally visited by bike a few days back.

Today the lake was bathed in a carpet of greenery, complimenting the hills and mountains in the distance.

We were fortunate to have arrived at the pagoda just as one of the many coach trips was leaving and so briefly we had the opportunity to take photos of the entrance without being pressured to move on.

The area around the pagoda is so wonderful and made for those people that like a photo or three. We did our best to get in there quick, then move on to the next spot.

We had a wander around the pagoda and temples, but like the day previous the heat was starting to become stifling.

We decided to get back into the jeep and let the breeze from the drive help cool us down.

Our driver was keen to show was the jeep was capable of doing and a couple of times, he introduced some new gears that he manoeuvred and enabled us to navigate through muddy terrain.

The last hour of our trip, was a pleasant experience of going in and out of small villages where we got a brief glimpse of how the locals live, many of which are set up as Home-stays and have small pools and seating areas to entice people in.

Our jeep tour eventually came to an end mid-afternoon and goes down as one of the best experiences in Vietnam. Such a cool way to see this beautiful part of the country.

By this time we had worked up a bit of an appetite and went to a nearby bakery/cafe where we treated ourselves to coffee, cake and a fruit smoothie.

What was left of the rest of the day was spent chilling back at the hotel pool, where we caught up with a couple from South Africa who are travelling around Japan and SE Asia. Suyenne and Anthon were a great couple, very friendly and we hope to catch up with them again when we head to Hanoi in just under a weeks time.

Tomorrow we leave Ninh Binh and are travelling to the island of Cat Ba where we plan to spend 5 nights in Cat Hai, doing a day cruise and generally exploring this beautiful part of the coastline.