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  • Overseas tour Day 172 – Kinabatangan River

    Apr 18th, 2024

    An early morning start, with brekkie at 7am and a departure from Kundasang and the tea plantation at 8am.

    Our prior nights stay had been at the Alfred Dent cottage, one of the early British colonial settlers who helped to establish North Borneo as an economic base.

    The views from our garden room were pretty special and Andy/Maradona took no time to get out and look around.

    The tea plantation is surrounded by the rainforest, which has helped to deter unwanted insects and animals who prefer to stay in this area. As a result the tea plants have thrived and no chemical treatments have been required.

    Like any ‘attraction’ for tourists, there were a few oversized tea references which caught our eye and made for interesting photos!

    Our final view of the tea plantation

    We then headed east across the island on a 5hr bus trip, with a couple of toilet stops on our way to Kinabatangan River which sits close to Celebes Sea coastline. It’s fair to say the road was a work in progress, with large sections under reconstruction, as part of the government’s plans to build a new superhighway across the state of Sabah. From what we saw completion is a good few years off!

    Eventually around 1.30pm we arrived at the river and the Borneo Natural Sakua Bilit resort. We were pleasantly surprised by the accommodation which comprise large wood lodge on stilts nestled on the fridge of the jungle.

    Our 4 poster bed for the next 2 nights
    Room with a view of the lake

    The lodge comes with its own veranda looking out over a small pond and fountain.

    The Kinabatangan River is a protected forest serve with some of the highest concentrations of wildlife in the whole of Borneo. We were quickly introduced to proboscis monkeys which sat in abundance outside of our lodges. We were warned not to leave our doors unlocked or anything outside, as the monkeys will see this as an opportunity to get inside and help themselves to bags etc.

    In the afternoon we headed off on a river cruise to try and spot some of the elusive local animals.

    Michelle readying herself for the start of the cruise
    Check out the life jackets – v urban cool!

    Once we set off, our guide Ben and the boat driver were quickly pointing out animals on the banks of the river. Within the first 30mins we had seen macaques (monkeys) by the dozen, a couple of baby crocodiles, hornbills and kingfisher birds, with their colourful beaks and not to be forgotten a wild orang-utan up in the tops of the tree foliage.

    A very inquisitive long tailed proboscis monkey

    We managed to take a few photos of the rest of the group whilst on the boat, below from the back is Ben our tour guide, doing a heart shape, Jill and Pete in front, our Aussie/Uk couple and ourselves all sporting our camouflage lifejackets.

    Baby crocodile
    An inquisitive pair of monkeys checking us out
    Brent to the left and Jill to the right…:
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    On our return to the lodge

    After an enjoyable boat cruise, we had some downtime and enjoyed dinner in the main lodge hall, which comprised a buffet of rice, curried chicken, pumpkin and fish, with some pineapple and a mango jelly for dessert.

    As darkness fell, we departed on a night walk around the jungle which was a real treat and an awesome experience.

    Our guide for the evening

    Within the first 15mins we spotted one of the smallest and most unusual looking monkeys in Borneo the Tarsier. They aren’t the prettiest, but you don’t forgetting seeing one. Tonight we managed to catch sight of mother and baby.

    As we walked we came across elephant footprints and dung, however it turned out they were from some 6 weeks ago when they experienced heavy rains.

    Antonia frog native to Borneo
    Elephant foot print

    As we returned to the lodges we came across a sleeping bird. It turns out there are hundreds of varieties on the island, although this one had a distinctive colouring, with a white head and dark black feathers on its upper torso and vivid yellow to its lower breast. After shining a torch for a little too long it woke but happily sat there on the branch waiting for us to move on.

    After a fun packed day and in the knowledge of a 5.30am start the next day to catch the birds and monkeys as they wake, we headed off to bed around 9.30pm.

  • Overseas tour Day 171 – Kampung Kiau & Kundasang

    Apr 18th, 2024

    We started our tour this morning leaving KK and headed into the hills to the rural village of Kampubg Kiau.

    On the way we stopped to enjoy the views of Mount Kinabalu, which you can see peeking out above the clouds below.

    It was market day at the small town stop, so we explored the produce on offer, which comprised mainly of dried fish and nuts, as well as the more appealing pineapple.

    Once we arrived in Kampung Kiau, we met our guide who took us on a herbal trail learning which specific plants are used in local dishes.

    We then visited a local coffee production house where we learnt how the coffee beans are picked, dried, de-shelled and then roasted.

    Andy got in on the act and helped with the removing of the shells
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    Our guide roasting the coffee beans
    The finished product

    We then checked out Everything Pineapple, a sustainable and community based project established post the Saban earthquake in 2015. We got to taste pineapple juice, wine, jam and chutney.

    We also had a talk about the use of bamboo and how the villagers have built with it, made animal traps, knives, drinking containers you name it.

    After an enjoyable meal and tour with the villagers we said our goodbyes and drove on to our nights accommodation, Sabah Tea Plantation.

    A tea love spot

    We are staying in a charming bungalow and had an enjoyable meal at the in-house restaurant with the rest of the group where we swapped stories of our travels and experiences from home.

    Our guide, Ben who is very knowledgeable about all things Borneo, explained about the animals we hoped to see on a river cruise tomorrow and the adventures in store. He also introduced us to some of the local wildlife, notably a noisy insect called a Cicada.

  • Overseas tour Day 170 – KK & explore

    Apr 17th, 2024

    With our tour not starting until 6pm today, we decided to head out on our own and explore the sights around KK.

    Our first stop was Masjid Bandaraya mosque, where tourists can visit but are required to hire local dress to cover up.

    Due to the heat, this meant for sweltering conditions until we got inside and out of the sun.

    Local dress selfie
    Michelle in traditional dress

    The mosque is the second major one in KK and sits in a prime position close to the sea and the major highway.

    When entering the mosque we were met by a small boy who showed us where to place our footwear and how long we could spend inside and where we were allowed to visit.

    The building is highly decorative and cavernous and welcomes hundreds of worshippers up to 5 times each day.

    It was incredibly interesting to get the opportunity to look inside of the mosque and see how the community of people live and work within.

    The building is surrounded by water and colourful flowered gardens and looks stunning.

    After taking one last photo in the local dress, we moved outside the mosque grounds where you could get the best view. It’s truly amazing.

    From there we were able to get a taxi driver to give us a tour of the rest of the sights of the city, with our next stop being the Tun Mustapha tower.

    Due to its cylindrical shape, our ‘guide’ suggested the classic shot of us both holding up the tower in the background.

    The tower sits in a municipal area where they also recognise and celebrate the native monkeys – needless to say Andy didn’t need much encouragement to get in the theme!

    Our next stop was one of the city beaches which forms part of the main university grounds. It was a beautiful spot with classic swings in the trees looking out over the clear blue sea. The most idyllic spot we’ve seen to date.

    Classic catalogue shoot

    We then moved on to the University Malaysia Sabah mosque or pink building as it’s affectionately known.

    Nearby the mosque, were some highly decorative steps which were designed and built just before Covid by a number of the university students. The colour and design mirrors the national dress of Sabah rungus community.

    Keeping with the religious theme, we moved on to look around Puh Toh Si Chinese Temple.

    The colours and drawings on the temple walls were so intricate and beautiful.

    Looking around the temple it was clear how well kept the place was & the respect paid by worshippers when entering the grounds.

    Our final stop was the Masjid Bandaraya mosque in central Kota Kinabalu.

    When we arrived the people were being called to prayer, which made us realise the importance and significance the place has to the regular Muslim community.

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    After a busy few hours and with lunch fast approaching we retired to Tanjung Aru beach to chill and enjoy a cool drink looking out on the China Sea. The beach was stunning, but oddly deserted with no one else around. It was admittedly 2pm on a hot day, so locals probably know better than to sit in the heat without shade.

    We enjoyed a long walk along the beach taking in the views, before returning to our hotel and our welcome meeting for the start of our Borneo Classic tour.

    We met the other 6 people on the tour, who help form the ‘commonwealth’ group, coming from Canada, New Zealand, Australia and of course UK. They seem a lovely bunch and after the meet and greet we headed out for a bite to eat at a local restaurant on the waterfront. The food and drink was an interesting combo, but at just £2.50 per head, it proved to be good value.

    After a quick beer back at the hotel bar, we decided to retire early to bed and ready ourselves for the start of the new adventure tomorrow when we head out into the mountain rainforest to visit a local village.

  • Overseas tour Day 169 – KL & KK (Kota Kinabalu)

    Apr 16th, 2024

    Au revoir to KL and hello to KK today. We were sad to leave the city and the Majestic Hotel after a wonderful and relaxing stay.

    Before leaving we managed to get a final couple of photos in the main entrance hall before hotfooting it to the airport for our domestic flight to Borneo.

    We had a little time to spare at the airport, which meant wandering around the Malaysian specialty stores selling the weird & the wonderful.

    Not one of Michelle’s favourite fruits
    Andy meeting new friends
    Just about to take off to KK

    After a 3hr flight and a short taxi ride we arrived at the Promenade hotel in downturn for KK for our two nights stay before we kick off on the Classic Borneo tour.

    As the hotel sits right on the waterfront we decided to head for a drink to take in the views out over the China Sea.

    Out in the bay is Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park, comprising a group of 5 islands located off the coast of Kota Kinabalu in Sabah.

    Walking along to the port, we watched the local fishermen bring in their catch and get them prepared for sale to locals and tourists alike.

    The size of the local tuna were immense and we watched as the skilled stall holders, some only kids, chopping up the fish with large knives.

    Alongside the fish for sale, were vegetables as well as seaweed.

    As we wandered further through the market, we saw chicken and fish heads side by side for sale and just ice cubes to keep them cool.

    Pirate fish – incredible colours

    A lot of the locals were heading to the market, not only to buy produce but also to eat and for just the equivalent of a couple of pounds you could buy bbq’ed fish served on banana leaves.

    We stayed on the waterfront to wait the sunset over the sea and to marvel at the beautiful sky, a real change from the hustle and bustle of KL only a few hours earlier.

    On our return to the hotel, we received some complimentary fruit salad, after a mix up over rooms when we first checked in. After an enjoyable first day in Borneo we are both looking forward to exploring the surrounding area and the various temples and mosques that sit outside of the city, as well as a trip to the beach for a dip in the clear blue sea!!

  • Overseas tour Day 168 – KL last hurrah

    Apr 15th, 2024

    With today being our last morning in KL, we headed out post breakfast for a return visit to the Central Market and walk around Chinatown.

    Before leaving the hotel, Andy insisted on getting his photo with another of the porters who was sporting an old British colonial uniform.

    Despite being only 10am, it was already 36 degrees and getting hotter, so we headed inside for some respite.

    The Central Market was formally a wet market that was converted to sell local arts and crafts in the 1980’s. You can stroll around the many sections within the Central Market, from the Lorong Melayu, Straits Chinese, and Lorong India, located on the west wing. The second floor hosts a food court, offering an array of food

    Located alongside the main building is the newly transformed, pedestrianised and covered walkway, Kasturi Walk featuring stalls selling local snacks and souvenirs.

    We then headed to the textile museum adjacent to the Sultan Abdul Samad Building.

    The building was designed in a Moorish architectural style and houses 4 galleries detailing the history of Malaysian, Indian and China textiles and the costumes that are still worn.

    Getting dressed up

    After the museum we headed back to the River of Life walkway and the beautiful back drop of the Sultan Abdul Samad Building and Merdeka Square.

    Inevitably there had to be an Insta backdrop with the I ❤️ KL!

    The first National Bank of KL

    As we walked around we saw brief glimpses of the rich greenery and the jungles that exist outside of the city limits.

    As we meandered our way back to the hotel, we walked past the National Mosque of Malaysia.

    Unfortunately we weren’t able to go inside, as non-worshipers weren’t allowed inside at the time.

    Alongside the mosque were decorative architectural pieces:

    Alongside this was the Islamic Arts Museum.

    Our lasting memory of KL will be about looking up and taking in the ever changing skyline.

    Another photo of Merdeka 118 which is close to completion

    Next door to the hotel, are the two railway buildings erected in 1910 which house a station and the main HQ for the national railways. Each is notable for their architecture, which adopt a mixture of Eastern and Western designs.

    Back at the hotel, there was just time to grab one more photo with the older and diminutive porter who helped us each day with the ordering of cabs.

    With the heat of the day at its greatest, we headed for the hotel pool for a couple of hours of R&R before heading out for a final evenings meal and shop.

    Back in Chinatown, Michelle was on the hunt for a memento and decided to treat herself to a LVMH bag, from one of the stalls that sells good replicas.

    Michael Jackson themed restaurant – only in KL

    After an enjoyable meal, we strolled back to the Majestic and enjoyed a final evening listening to some jazz in the hotel drawing room.

    Tomorrow the next adventure awaits, as we fly off to Borneo for a 10 day tour into the jungle.

  • Overseas tour Day 167 – Majestic Mk II

    Apr 14th, 2024

    Another day, another early run for Andy, this time around the botanical gardens. He’s made a new friend with the porter at the Majestic, who by a twist of fate also originates from Nepal.

    As Michelle is still feeling unwell, she stayed in bed this morning and Andy took residence at the hotel pool on the 4th floor.

    Michelle started to feel a little better after a few extra hours sleep so we decided to go and have afternoon tea in the hotel drawing room.

    The hotel is famed for its colonial charm and sitting in the drawing room with a piano playing and people eating cucumber sandwiches and drinking tea, it felt like we were in an old hotel in the West End of London.

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    After enjoying the backdrop of a piano playing and old school waiter service, we moved on to the smoking room, where for a charge you can pick a jacket and enjoy a cigar or cigarette with a glass or two of whiskey on ice, or whatever takes your fancy.

    With early evening approaching, we headed out to a restaurant nearby the hotel for some traditional Malaysian and a dish called Nasi Lemak Ayam Rendang.

    In front of the Majestic waiting for a Grab

    With the cab delayed by Sunday night traffic, we decided to walk, which due to the humidity levels meant we needed a drink or two by the time we made it to the restaurant.

    Chicken & rice and some spice!

    We found a quicker way back and thankfully escaped the impending thunder storm that descended within a few minutes of being back in the hotel.

    Tomorrow’s our last day in KL, so we intend to do some last minute shopping in Chinatown and see if we can pick up a bargain or two from the designer market stalls…!!

  • Overseas tour Day 166 – Majestic Hotel, Kampung Attap

    Apr 13th, 2024

    Today we said goodbye to Capri at Frasers after a fantastic 6 night stay and moved across the city for our final 3 days at the Majestic Hotel, a colonial masterpiece where we plan to explore the botanical gardens, Central Market and Chinatown.

    Our arrival at our new ‘home’ was a great surprise as it’s such a stunning place.

    The old entrance

    The hotel is infamous in the city dating back to the 1930’s and has all the hallmarks of the old colonial past.

    Entrance hall…

    Our room is the best we’ve stayed at since we left the Uk, so we plan to make the most of our stay.

    Bath time later
    Room with a view

    After relaxing by the pool at lunch, Michelle decided to stay at the hotel, as she’s been suffering with cold symptoms (not uncommon we’re told due to shift from heat to air conditioning and back again through the day). Andy went out to explore the Central Market which houses arts and crafts, along with local street food stalls.

    Next to the Central Market is the bustling Chinese streets and an area to pick up bargains, although most of the stuff on sale are designer fake goods – bags, scarves, watches, trainers you name it, they copy it and sell it – just don’t expect a receipt or a guarantee!

    After a hour of walking around Chinatown, the heat and the bustle starts to tire you out, so Andy headed back on foot and took some photos of the local train station opposite and the ever changing skyline with colonial turrets and mosques sitting alongside the increasing number of skyscrapers.

    Back in the hotel, we had a wander around the various themed bars and smoking rooms. There is even an Orchid room, which is awash with the various coloured plant. The look is incredible and like being in a tropical garden.

    Having not eaten since breakfast, we decided late afternoon to head out for a bite to eat and were recommended a Malaysian restaurant called Bijan. It proved to be a real find and being a Saturday was busy and vibrant. We went ‘tapas’ sharing a veg starter which was a lite potato fritter in garlic and butter with a tomato dip. For mains, a chicken and tomato coconut dish, which had an Indian curry feel to it and was well received by the both of us.

    After dinner we went to explore the other street market areas we’d heard about, the main one being Petaling Street and the night markets in the Golden Triangle. Both were so very busy and awash with locals and tourists alike. It’s culinary chaos, with people trying to tempt you to stop and try what’s on offer. As we’d already eaten, we held our nerve apart from a stop at a gelato stall for some refreshing sorbets. Really helped to cool us down.

    We eventually found our way to Bukit Bintang and with the Eid celebrations now behind us, the normal crowds were back along with a few unusual faces….

    At 9.30pm, it’s busier now than at midday, people live different hours, starting early and finishing late, which has to be down to the oppressive heat at midday.

    When we got back to the hotel, we were planning a relaxing end to the evening and some reading, however we were hit by one of our first trip mistakes.

    We received an email from our travel agent who we had omitted to notify that we’d taken an earlier flight out of Bali a week ago, thereby avoiding overrunning our 30 day visa, and as a result didn’t take our planned later flight on the 13th April.

    Sadly the result being the airline cancelling our ‘connecting’ flights to Borneo and back in a few days time. Thankfully after a call to the airline and an admission of guilt and a ‘fine’ of £140 we have managed to get the flights re-instated.

    Definitely a lesson to us both to check the paperwork and not go rogue without letting the airline know.

    Thankfully we are back on track re travel plans, however Michelle has picked up a bug and has been in bed trying to shake the cold. We need her back to full strength on Tuesday when we head to Borneo and our 10 day tour of the rainforest.

  • Overseas tour Day 165 – Putrajaya & Kuala Lumpur

    Apr 12th, 2024

    Andy was up early doors for his daily 10k circuit around central Bukit Bintang before catching a photo with the Nepalese porter.

    This morning we went out to get passport photos taken for our visas to China, Cambodia and Laos. Thankfully this proved quick and easy and we now have the various country photos sizes required.

    With the rest of the day at our disposal, we decided to take a trip on the mono-rail, before getting a train down to the ‘new city’ of Putrajaya.

    Eid celebrations keep on giving

    Mono-rail time. So quiet, so respectful and so much better than travelling on the London Underground!

    Relaxing with the locals
    Cabin with a view

    Interestingly the trains in KL have women only compartments so when waiting you’re required to stand in specific locations on the platform.

    A quiet, clean, long & unmanned train

    When we arrived in Putrajaya, it was like arriving to a party a day late. The celebrations for the end of Ramadan had finished and the place was so very quiet. It felt like we were the only ones in the whole place.

    Municipal centre and head of government
    View out to the mosque

    Despite the heat of the day, which was 35 degrees +, we strolled along the lakeside and marvelled at the beautiful state buildings and temples that sit along the water front.

    As we moved towards the centre square and the Putra mosque we started to see more and more people, mainly men who were going to pray and make offerings.

    The mosque is stunning and sits next door to the prime minister’s main residence and the man-made Putrajaya Lake.

    With the heat rising and fatigue kicking in, we decided to pick up a Grab taxi and head back into the centre of KL. We have signed up for a 2hr walking tour this evening around old KL, starting in Chinatown.

    View of the city from our cab

    As Michelle was feeling a little off colour, she decided to stay and relax at the hotel, so Andy had a gentle 2 mile walk to the meeting point in the glowing heat to join the walking tour.

    On the way Andy came across some of the sights and sounds of KL, from the old (China town) to the new Merdeka 118. With a mosque and Chinese store in between.

    Sadly the walking tour got cancelled, we suspect because of limited numbers, as the tour guide never showed up, so Andy was left to trudge back in the late afternoon sunshine.

    The good news is that we are up on the 43rd floor of the hotel enjoying our last nights complimentary drinks and finger food. Such great hospitality, we will not forget our stay and will be looking out for other Capri at Frasers elsewhere in SE Asia!

  • Overseas tour Day 164 – Batu Caves & Kuala Lumpur

    Apr 11th, 2024

    Back on a tour today, with the first stop being a visit to a famous Pewter manufacturer, Royal Selangor. We admit it felt a bit random, which I suspect is down to the tour operators pay off from the company to see if they can get tourists to put their hands in their pockets. That said Malaysia’s history emanates from mining, as it once was the largest tin supplier in the world. Latterly Royal Selangor have become the pewter demigods and manufacture all manner of things from silver service for the Royal Family, to making the Grand Prix trophies for recent Malaysian races.

    The largest pewter tankard in the world!
    The chemical bit to pewter
    The Petronius Towers in pewter
    Workers handprints – those in gold signify careers of 40yrs+
    Money does grow on pewter trees
    Making money
    Trophy from Formulae One Grand-prix
    Here’s something we made earlier
    Step into my office
    Cheers
    School of…..
    Money tree

    After an hour or so, we left the pewter factory and headed for the main event, Batu Caves, a religious site north of KL, where caves were discovered 150yrs ago.

    It’s on an epic scale, and not for the faint hearted, firstly it’s entrance is in the full glare of the 35 degree sun, the steps leading up the hillside to the caves are steep and to add to this it’s packed. Oh and there are monkeys trained to pickpocket!

    285 steps leading up to the sky
    Gold Buddha

    Malaysia is a multi-faith country and the Batu Caves highlight its diversity with a show of the Hindu faith on a scale we’ve never experienced before.

    Families were out in force paying their respects in the various small temples located at the entrance and inside the caves themselves.

    Before the climb
    A young believer with her family
    The mad scramble up the multi coloured steps

    After navigating around a sea of people up the first set of steps, we entered into a cave that reminded us of an Indiana Jones movie – so other worldly.

    The cave entrance was on a scale hard to describe – truly epic and spellbinding.

    The first cave was busy with small temples, stalls with offerings for sale and tourists marvelling at the spectacle.

    Our young friend again. Truly beautiful.

    The various temples were all busy with worshippers coming and going.

    The tradition and spectacle whilst alien to us, is undoubtedly majestic and awe inspiring.

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    From the first cave, there was a further higher cave, with another 100 steps up. Here the rock formations seemed even more impressive and captivating.

    Monkeys everywhere
    Small temples and offerings were scattered around the caves, each trying to out do the last
    Locals queuing to make offerings
    Stall for buying gifts
    View coming back down
    The colours of the temples are so vivid
    Colour colour everywhere
    So majestic
    Captivating

    After the tour finished at the caves, we headed back to the city and the twin Petronas Towers to capture the view from another part of the city.

    Today was a particularly hot one, above 36 degrees, so as soon as the chance arose we headed inside the shopping mall below the towers for some respite.

    As Eid celebrations continue everyone flocks to the meeting place that is the mall!

    As another busy day comes to an end, we headed to the 43rd floor of our hotel to catch the sunset and enjoy a complimentary glass of vino and some finger food. It’s fair to say we’ve enjoyed our stay to date at Capri by Fraser. Staff and service have been exceptional.

  • Overseas tour Day 163 – Kuala Lumpur

    Apr 10th, 2024

    Another day, another giant shopping mall to visit and explore. The Exchange TRX, only opened last November and is just around the corner from our hotel. Again it’s packed up with luxury retailers but little shoppers from what we could see…!!

    Andy’s morning run and photo with the Nepalese porter.
    Entrance to The Exchange and roof gardens
    Skyscrapers here there and everywhere
    Luxury perfumery entrance with living walls
    Every luxury brand you can think of & more
    As new restaurants open they receive flowers from other businesses and backers to celebrate
    The word according to Pumas
    Shopping at another level(s)
    Eid celebrations were everywhere
    Roof top garden – it’s a hot one today
    Garden in the sky
    TRX tower 106 storeys & 1,500ft tall

    The new tower and shopping area sits in splendid isolation to the rest of the established retail area and has created a whole new neighbourhood with more residential towers.

    View looking back to Bukit Bintang
    Our hotel is Capri and is second on the right

    The Exchange includes some fun pieces with the cleaners driving around in giant kids toys.

    106 storeys top to bottom
    More Eid celebrations
    Some friendly Malay Chinese in local dress

    Some of the stores in The Exchange are wacky to say the least, notably Gentle Monster.

    Michelle in new sunnies
    Weird and the wonderful
    Friendly rhino
    Malay locals

    The skyline from the roof gardens – incredible views.

    Eid again…

    After strolling around the latest Uber mall, we returned to the hotel pool on the 43rd floor. The sun was shining so nothing to do but have a dip and relax!

    After drinks and nibbles on the 43rd floor of the hotel, we returned to The Exchange in the evening and were amazed by how busy it was and the number of locals who were out with their families. This may have been down to the public holiday for Eid, however there is no doubt the Malays love to celebrate all things shopping and eating!!

    Crazy motor for city living

    After a few hours of people watching we returned to our hotel and the bright lights.

    Tomorrow we are heading to the suburbs and Batu Caves.

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